John Peel

3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Destot's Gap < Bye, George  |  Black Flip > Wild Bill >>


Another classic, taking a long diagonal line and giving strenuous but well-protected climbing with good rests.
1) 5a, 25m. From a large tree in the gully, trend left to reach the base of the crack (junction with George) then climb it as it leans over. Traverse right and climb up to a tiny stance.
2) 5a, 25m. Continue in the same line to where the mighty yew used to be, and finish leftwards to the ridge or abseil from the fixed gear attached to the tree's remains.
FA. Pete (Trog) WIlliams, John (who peeled) Amies 1964

USER COMMENTS

Much overrated - and very dirty in 2002.
roger whetton - 07/Oct/03

This is a great trad route - not as 'modern' as Yew Tree and very much a good, long, pumpy HVS!
Ian - 24/Oct/03

Not nearly as good as the DJ. But then what is?
Fiend - 24/Oct/03

brilliant route, staring up Geogre gives a harder but cleaner climbing.
Blinder - 13/May/05

Doing it in the traditional 3 pitch style gets a bit tedious after the yew tree
Chris the Tall - 16/Jul/05

A worth while route but would be better in one oitch and ab off at the stump...however you do miss another ten metres of good climbing , but then a chossy scramble.... Not the fantastic route I was expecting overall.
Sishaw - 18/Jul/05

A small amount of gardening was required at the start, after which the climbing is superb: steep, sustained and thought-provoking. Great positions. Consider just doing the first (long) pitch and abbing off the in-situ threads at the stance.
John Parker - 08/Aug/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 43
    hard E1 0 of 14
    E1 0 of 14
    easy E1 0 of 14
    hard HVS 4 of 14
    HVS 10 of 14
    easy HVS 0 of 14
    hard VS 0 of 14
    VS 0 of 14
    easy VS 0 of 14
    hard 5b 0 of 14
    5b 0 of 14
    easy 5b 0 of 14
    hard 5a 7 of 14
    5a 7 of 14
    easy 5a 0 of 14
    hard 4c 0 of 14
    4c 0 of 14
    easy 4c 0 of 14
    3 Stars 5 of 15
    2 Stars 4 of 15
    1 Star 4 of 15
    0 Stars 2 of 15
    Bag of ..... 0 of 15

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