Welcome to Hard Times Direct Top 50

2 Stars
DWS
Banned
Fluttery
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Soft Times < Welcome to Hard Times  |  Joint Effort > Badlands >>


Brilliant intricate face climbing which is only slightly marred by the escape options on the top slab. Climb up the centre of the slab to the top horizontal break. Take a deep breath and balance on up the slab past one tiny wire. Escaping right from half way up the slab, or placing a side-runner in Joint Effort, drops the grade to a still-excellent E2.
FA. Andy Freeman, Pete Brayshaw, Giles Barker 1978,FA. (Direct) P.Stidever, R.Beadle 1983

USER COMMENTS

E3 to finish direct seems fair... E2 to traverse off
ChrisC - 24/Oct/03

Agreed, low in the grade but very pleasant the normal way, direct looks solid E3. A nice route despite finishing up the Nails.
Fiend - 24/Oct/03

Thought the hardest part was the finish up the Nails groove. Seriously.
Anonymous - 25/May/04

The hardest section of WTHT is the finish, however you do it, I think it should get the direct finish and an E3 tick
Al Evans - 22/Jun/04

Liquid Courage and Cathy's Clown are both far better.
tony - 12/Jul/05

My friend and I seem to disagree on exactly where this route goes!
I went up from the undercut section at the bottom, past a thread to join The Nails at just below the upper groove (as shown and described in On Peak Rock.)
My friend claims to be have been further right the for whole route (ignoring the upper groove, since he went for the E3 direct finish).

Either way, nice climbing, and more commiting than the crack routes either side.
Glen Harding - 01/Aug/06

Does the thread really exist, or is it a rural myth? I couldn't find it...
john bull - 03/Aug/06

It is there. Honestly!
Glen Harding - 08/Aug/06

It wasn't, yesterday.
Mick Ward - 08/Aug/06

No threads in-situ, and the only place I could see where you could place one was just below the crux. Would have been a bit tricky to place on the lead, but would have been more reassuring than the wires I placed. Very good climbing throughout
chris_moor - 04/Jun/10

Some consensus on the line seems necessary ... if you go straight up the slab it must be E3. There's at least one hard move left up there, and very little gear (one RP unless you take a side runner in Joint Effort). However, I'd agree on low E2 if you finish up The Nails. Either way an excellent route!
Chris Parson - 27/Jun/10

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