Welcome to Hard Times Top 50

2 Stars
Fluttery
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< The Nails < Soft Times  |  Joint Effort > Badlands >>


Fine intricate face climbing. Climb deviously up the centre of the slab (small wires and threads) to the horizontal break. Take a deep breath and balance on up the slab, avoiding the option of a rightward escape into Joint Effort.
Original Finish, E2 5c - Step left to finish up The Nails.
FA. Andy Freeman, Pete Brayshaw, Giles Barker 1978
FA. (Direct) P.Stidever, R.Beadle 1983

USER COMMENTS

E3 to finish direct seems fair... E2 to traverse off
ChrisC - 24/Oct/03

Agreed, low in the grade but very pleasant the normal way, direct looks solid E3. A nice route despite finishing up the Nails.
Fiend - 24/Oct/03

Thought the hardest part was the finish up the Nails groove. Seriously.
Anonymous - 25/May/04

The hardest section of WTHT is the finish, however you do it, I think it should get the direct finish and an E3 tick
Al Evans - 22/Jun/04

Liquid Courage and Cathy's Clown are both far better.
tony - 12/Jul/05

My friend and I seem to disagree on exactly where this route goes!
I went up from the undercut section at the bottom, past a thread to join The Nails at just below the upper groove (as shown and described in On Peak Rock.)
My friend claims to be have been further right the for whole route (ignoring the upper groove, since he went for the E3 direct finish).

Either way, nice climbing, and more commiting than the crack routes either side.
Glen Harding - 01/Aug/06

Does the thread really exist, or is it a rural myth? I couldn't find it...
john bull - 03/Aug/06

It is there. Honestly!
Glen Harding - 08/Aug/06

It wasn't, yesterday.
Mick Ward - 08/Aug/06

No threads in-situ, and the only place I could see where you could place one was just below the crux. Would have been a bit tricky to place on the lead, but would have been more reassuring than the wires I placed. Very good climbing throughout
chris_moor - 04/Jun/10

Some consensus on the line seems necessary ... if you go straight up the slab it must be E3. There's at least one hard move left up there, and very little gear (one RP unless you take a side runner in Joint Effort). However, I'd agree on low E2 if you finish up The Nails. Either way an excellent route!
Chris Parson - 27/Jun/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 57
    hard E4 0 of 0
    E4 0 of 0
    easy E4 0 of 0
    hard E3 0 of 0
    E3 0 of 0
    easy E3 0 of 0
    hard E2 0 of 0
    E2 0 of 0
    easy E2 0 of 0
    hard 6a 0 of 29
    6a 0 of 29
    easy 6a 1 of 29
    hard 5c 0 of 29
    5c 8 of 29
    easy 5c 18 of 29
    hard 5b 2 of 29
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    easy 5b 0 of 29
    3 Stars 19 of 28
    2 Stars 9 of 28
    1 Star 0 of 28
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