A Trip on the Dark Side

1 Stars
Crimpy
 6a+

Adjacent Routes
<< Ken Dodd's Dad's Dog's Dead < Gathering Darkness  |  Feel My Presence > Tapenard >>


A decent, but disjointed pitch. From the grotty groove head left up the fingery wall to ledges. Finish direct up the right-hand side of the arete above. The crack gives an easier finish.
FA. Gary Gibson, Hazel Gibson 2002

USER COMMENTS

not a bad route, the first half is quite nice and the top section OK.
richardh - 29/Mar/04

A turd of a route. Well not really but no stars either. Lower wall is nice enough but then it degenerates into un-fun-ness.
Fiend - 23/Apr/04

a strangely disjointed route: the description for the top arete is confusing, the line i climbed in the end goes just to the left of the arete via great jamming cracks. just to the right of the arete doesnt seem to be possible at 6a+. further to the right there are some excellent cracks but i couldnt clip the top bolt from them! I was concerned that some one could take a nasty fall from these. I looked at Gary Gibsons guide and the line on the photo seems to follow these cracks on the right, I think someone needs to check this route out again.
mike S - 30/Jun/05

Hard and technical move from second bolt, seemed 6b ish
Bob Bennett - 14/Jul/05

Unusually for HH, this route is actually much worse than it looks.
john bull - 17/Jul/06

a good route and the cracks on the right give a decent jamtastic finish!
martin k - 26/Jul/06

I found the route a bit wandering and confusing and the top was harder than 6a+ (and I'd been climbing 6a+ and 6b all day).
richard - 18/Sep/07

Bottom section is good and merit 6a+
Middle is a bit scrappy and the top is odd.
Using the cracks to the left of the arete seems to be cheating, but taking the front face direct and then reaching across to the arete is at least 6b. The position of the bolts doesn't help - if they were better placed it would be an excellant finish.
chris_moor - 19/Sep/07

Suprisingly Gary Gibson did the first ascent and his route identifies how you do the route. It therefore seems odd that his own identity of the route is questioned. You climb the front face. Gary Gibson
Themeninblack - 20/Sep/07

Mangle that Syntax, GG!!
Goi Ashmore - 21/Sep/07

I just don't know what you mean! I think Allen just copied my web site incorrectly?
Themeninblack - 22/Sep/07

The lower wall has very good climbing but moving left and leaving the 2nd bolt gets very bold. When stood on the 2nd ledge (with a bolt near your feet!) I think the description should say 'step right and climb the cracks'; not 'finish direct up the right-hand side of the arete'. The problem then is that you have to clip the next bolt (off to your left) in a very strenuous position with a ledge below you (which you don't want to hit). The climbing up these cracks is very good but strenuous...and 6b.
Colin Hughes - 21/Jul/13

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 40
    hard 6b 0 of 21
    6b 1 of 21
    easy 6b 3 of 21
    hard 6a+ 9 of 21
    6a+ 4 of 21
    easy 6a+ 4 of 21
    hard 6a 0 of 21
    6a 0 of 21
    easy 6a 0 of 21
    3 Stars 0 of 19
    2 Stars 1 of 19
    1 Star 12 of 19
    0 Stars 4 of 19
    Bag of ..... 2 of 19

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