Mock Turtle

Pumpy
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Thread Flintstone < Brown Windsor  |  Great Buttress Eliminate > Great Buttress >>


20m. An eliminate though with some good moves. From an embedded spike pull over the roof then climb straight up the rib between Brown Windsor and Great Buttress Eliminate. Continue up a scoop then hand traverse 3m to the right and pull strenuously over the right edge of the large capping roof.
FA. Mike Appleton 1996

USER COMMENTS

This felt much harder than the grade of E1 5b - but maybe attempting it at the end of the day didnt help. Strenuous committing traverse to even harder moves above with gear getting ever more distant. My attempt saw a frantic retreat back to the scoop/niche and an escape out left into Brown Windsor. Any other views on this route ?
Steve Burns - 27/Jul/04

i don't know if this is the same route i did with Chris Rhoads and Anthony Addiss in 1993.
which i called "Black tartan" that went directly the pedestal under the obvious round sculpted feature on the underside of the roof using this feature to get your hands above the roof then using a dynamic mantle shelf onto the slab above.
I graded it E3 5b.
i don't recommend anybody dose this without a serious look at side runners first
David Paul Hassall - 13/Apr/11

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