Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 29
12m. Layback the lower arete precariously on its left-hand side to a ledge on the right. Teeter up to better holds (the crux for shorties) and a romp to the top. Easier for the tall. The lower arete can also be climbed on its right via the tiny groove.
very scary if you are short...
i found the bottom bit fairly easy, had to back off the top though as just could reach the holds without making committing moves with no gear...i have done plenty of e5 and the odd e6 on sight before and am about 5' 10 or 11...
I'm only 5'7' and did this on-sight many years ago when graded E4. Wasn't aware then of the reputation against shorties. I did, however, make loud comments at the time as it being harder than most E5's I'd done. The start felt like 6c, but it is possible to do the long moves if short, albeit at increased grade.
Superb route and well worth its 3 stars!
I placed solid apposing wire/rp at the thin break at the top of the slab. I'm 5'6" and used a high thumb scrag to keep me in balance before reaching good slopers.
Bottom arete is definitely the crux - no harder than average 6b. Did it just after soloing The Knock which made the The Knock feel vvvvv easy.
I'm quite tall(6ft exactly) and the route felt very easy.
I'm 5"11 and found the crux ok, more commitment to standing on the decent smears rather than a long reach! Top half is great, awesome moves and fairly run out!
superb route, with interesting moves all the way up. theres some poor gear but don't fall off.
Soft - easier than The Knock or White Wand - Im only 5 10' aswell.