Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 27
10m. An unrelenting struggle up the wide crack. At least it is protectable nowadays by the biggest cams and a tatty old thread in the depths of the crack. The bold (crazy?) can layback the outer edge of the crack but that isn't really the point.
Hard for E4. 2 crux sections, 2 rests. If you have the enthusiasm to get into the crack, it will teach you a lot about off-width climbing.
Looks so innocuous but packs it in for the last 8 feet. Can be done without a struggle or skin loss but the moves and techniques to do this are hard to read or obscure. Try using a butterfly jam near the top followed by a hard to locate knee jam where you move your heel towards your backside. Laybacking misses out on all the fun. Further pointers on:
The above beta might be bogus. Talking to someone who did it yesterday with bigger hands the top bit can be fist-jammed.
This is just desperate. E4 6a maybe?
A real battle if you stay in the crack
The top crack can be fisted. Tried to climb it as an offwidth for the full experience, but could't, so laybacked the lower section, moved dynamic back into the fist jam and reached for glory, while my partner did an epic fall there back to the ground:)