3 Stars
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic Barrier < Samson  |  David > Sling Shot >>

An unrelenting struggle up the wide crack. At least it is protectable nowadays by the biggest cams. The bold (crazy?) can layback the outer edge of the crack but that is rather avoiding the issue.
FA. Don Whillans 1958. Possibly the hardest route of its era.


Hard for E4. 2 crux sections, 2 rests. If you have the enthusiasm to get into the crack, it will teach you a lot about off-width climbing.
Garan. - 16/Jun/04

Looks so innocuous but packs it in for the last 8 feet. Can be done without a struggle or skin loss but the moves and techniques to do this are hard to read or obscure. Try using a butterfly jam near the top followed by a hard to locate knee jam where you move your heel towards your backside. Laybacking misses out on all the fun. Further pointers on:

http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=241 and general off width tips on http://flash.lakeheadu.ca/~lurock/crack.html
Simon Lee - 18/May/05

The above beta might be bogus. Talking to someone who did it yesterday with bigger hands the top bit can be fist-jammed.
Simon Lee - 19/May/05

This is just desperate. E4 6a maybe?
Iggy_B - 09/Jun/05

A real battle if you stay in the crack
dannyboy83 - 25/Nov/05

The top crack can be fisted. Tried to climb it as an offwidth for the full experience, but could't, so laybacked the lower section, moved dynamic back into the fist jam and reached for glory, while my partner did an epic fall there back to the ground:)
Urs Odermatt - 02/Jun/13

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 27
    hard E5 0 of 14
    E5 0 of 14
    easy E5 5 of 14
    hard E4 1 of 14
    E4 5 of 14
    easy E4 2 of 14
    hard E3 1 of 14
    E3 0 of 14
    easy E3 0 of 14
    hard 6b 0 of 2
    6b 0 of 2
    easy 6b 0 of 2
    hard 6a 0 of 2
    6a 2 of 2
    easy 6a 0 of 2
    hard 5c 0 of 2
    5c 0 of 2
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    3 Stars 11 of 11
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