ScarfaceRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 14
Adjacent Routes
12m. The wall beneath the long roof. USER COMMENTS
One very hard move which is easier if you're a little taller. Bolts are completely in the wrong place for an on-site. Better to do the route tothe right first.
Seems hard for the grade and possibly 6c+ if you compare it to, say, the 7as at the lower right of Malham Catwalk. The crux pull is reachy and actually harder than it looks, there's still some trickiness above. The bolts are stupid - 2nd and 3rd should be placed 2' higher. Still a good route though.
I agree with you now Fiend. A crucial foothold has come off since we did the first ascent. that made both the move and clipping a bit easier. I'll have a look at re-positioning the bolts next time up.
The crux now has an extra bolt midway between the old second and third. We tried to place another new one on the upper runout but the hollow nature of the rock here precluded that (maybe a long glue in would work). However the route is now much safer but 6c+ seems to be the consensus grade.
Noticed the new bolts, looks more appealing. |