Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 10
12m. The slanting V-shaped groove gives a well protected battle that is a complete nightmare if at all greasy, and it always is.
A desperately hard struggle that does nothing to reduce Burbage South's reputation as the home of fierce grit routes. A relatively straightforward initial crack (beware the polished footholds) suddenly tranforms into a tricky, moss-covered, thin crack (good gear) and a hideous mantel/flop onto a sloping ledge. Even then the small ledge above is flat, slopey and entirely lacking in decent holds! Would be worth a good E1 5c at any gentler crag...
thought id give this a go during the recent heatwave, and the upper crack was a slippery little customer, just as well the gear is good , if a tad strenuous to place. beware the good looking ledge, it slopes like buggery and is quite dirty.
my friend had a go at leading this today, climbed it well untill the ledge where he put his hand to find bird crap, peebles and a puddle and had to let go as couldnt get on it.