2 Stars
 E1 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Zeus < Fagus Sylvatica  |  Fox House Flake > The Cock >>

The slanting V-shaped groove gives a well-protected battle that is a complete nightmare if at all greasy, and it nearly always is.
FA. Gerry Rogan early 1960s


A desperately hard struggle that does nothing to reduce Burbage South's reputation as the home of fierce grit routes. A relatively straightforward initial crack (beware the polished footholds) suddenly tranforms into a tricky, moss-covered, thin crack (good gear) and a hideous mantel/flop onto a sloping ledge. Even then the small ledge above is flat, slopey and entirely lacking in decent holds! Would be worth a good E1 5c at any gentler crag...
Nick Smith - 09/Apr/02

thought id give this a go during the recent heatwave, and the upper crack was a slippery little customer, just as well the gear is good , if a tad strenuous to place. beware the good looking ledge, it slopes like buggery and is quite dirty.
karl - 11/Aug/03

my friend had a go at leading this today, climbed it well untill the ledge where he put his hand to find bird crap, peebles and a puddle and had to let go as couldnt get on it.
jamesturnbull - 14/Aug/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 10
    hard E2 0 of 2
    E2 0 of 2
    easy E2 0 of 2
    hard E1 0 of 2
    E1 1 of 2
    easy E1 0 of 2
    hard HVS 1 of 2
    HVS 0 of 2
    easy HVS 0 of 2
    hard 6a 0 of 2
    6a 0 of 2
    easy 6a 0 of 2
    hard 5c 0 of 2
    5c 1 of 2
    easy 5c 0 of 2
    hard 5b 1 of 2
    5b 0 of 2
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    3 Stars 0 of 6
    2 Stars 2 of 6
    1 Star 4 of 6
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