Millwheel Wall

3 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Perched Block Route < Coldest Crack  |  Dunkley's Eliminate > Pretzel Logic >>


12m. The blunt arete has a slippery start then climb the slab trending rightwards, a good test of footwork, to better holds, the odd tiny runner and a brisk mantelshelf finish. Stake belay.
FA. Len Millsom 1958

USER COMMENTS

I soloed this. Fantastic route with the crux quite high and very committing. It did look possible to place very small gear but you might lose hand holds. If you've got thin fingers some of the holds will feel like jusgs.
Dave F - 18/May/04

One of my favourite E1s - I onsight soloed it with no-one else around. Gear at the crux would probably get in the way of handholds. It feels really exposed but the sequence (no doubt it varies depending on your height) is easy to follow as the quarried holds are small but obvious.
Andrew Barker - 26/Mar/06

Small wires in the break didn't block the handholds for me and I thought the crux was lower down near the bullet-mark things. Sweet as a nut!
Joe C - 18/Jun/06

I agree with Joe C. I got two opposing Rock 1's at the first break. Perhaps just a bit better than psycological. Hardest moves were reaching the first break and leaving it.
Martin Hore - 21/Jul/06

Surprisingly good runners with small wires and small cams.
Rob Davies - 13/May/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 56
    hard E2 0 of 19
    E2 0 of 19
    easy E2 0 of 19
    hard E1 4 of 19
    E1 15 of 19
    easy E1 0 of 19
    hard HVS 0 of 19
    HVS 0 of 19
    easy HVS 0 of 19
    hard 5c 0 of 19
    5c 0 of 19
    easy 5c 0 of 19
    hard 5b 3 of 19
    5b 12 of 19
    easy 5b 4 of 19
    hard 5a 0 of 19
    5a 0 of 19
    easy 5a 0 of 19
    3 Stars 11 of 18
    2 Stars 7 of 18
    1 Star 0 of 18
    0 Stars 0 of 18
    Bag of ..... 0 of 18

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