2 Stars
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Brindle < Scrimsel  |  Satan's Slit > Gates of Mordor >>

From beside the leaning blocks, climb the steep crack past plenty of nice fat wires. Low in the grade, but hard enough.
FFA. Henry Barber 1973


Steep and pumpy, but with some good rest positions and good gear.
Nick Smith - 08/Jul/03

Deceptive in all but it's steepness. The alleged good horizontal is nothing of the sort, whilst the moves at the top are considerably more civilised than those lower down. Although it may not seem that way when one's eyes are watering from the typical gritstone express-pump....shake-outs require some cunning but the protection doesn't, a rather satisfying route.
Fiend - 19/Oct/03

Easy for grade - I think E1 - particularly compared to Stans Slit
Simon Lee - 02/Sep/04

A justified upgrade from E1 to E2? Technically, the moves don't extend much beyond reaching and yanking, and the holds (and gear) are fairly generous. But it is fierce pumpy, and the rests aren't particularly err, restful, so yeah, E2, just, i guess. The route description is somewhat misleading, as the crux seemed (to me) to be lower down, although the true 'crux' is probably finding the energy to keep going!
PatEase - 18/Apr/05

A bit pumpy, knowing when to stop and place gear and when to push on will help. I got lots of wires in, some pretty big ones. The grade is spot on.
Ropeboy - 05/Jun/05

Definitely E2 don't know how anyone thinks it isn't! Pumpy but with good gear. Loose/wobbly hold in crack at top was a bit worrying.
Dave - 29/Jun/05

Nice route. If it was vertical it would be a soft HVS 5a. Never E2.
KB - 20/Sep/05

No ways... it get's E2 now - bargain! It's got to get downgraded again soon eh?
Tom - 30/Aug/06

E2 for me, but if you're happy hanging out on steep stuff with average holds it might feel E1.
Dave Foster - 02/Oct/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 96
    hard E3 0 of 32
    E3 0 of 32
    easy E3 0 of 32
    hard E2 1 of 32
    E2 13 of 32
    easy E2 8 of 32
    hard E1 10 of 32
    E1 0 of 32
    easy E1 0 of 32
    hard 5c 0 of 32
    5c 0 of 32
    easy 5c 0 of 32
    hard 5b 12 of 32
    5b 18 of 32
    easy 5b 2 of 32
    hard 5a 0 of 32
    5a 0 of 32
    easy 5a 0 of 32
    3 Stars 1 of 32
    2 Stars 27 of 32
    1 Star 4 of 32
    0 Stars 0 of 32
    Bag of ..... 0 of 32

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