Gates of Mordor

2 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Brimstone < Satan's Slit  |  Pin Prick > Hacklespur >>

The pod and leaning hand-crack give a withering pitch. The route swallows medium cams by the tonne and, although the initial groove is a grovel, the crux is right at the very top.
FA. Hank Pasquill 1969


A great route, with loads of gear for E3, if you can hang around to place it! I found the initial wide crack fine on its own (good holds in the back of the recess) without using the thin left hand crack.
Nick Smith - 14/Jul/03

Great route - pumpy! Good rest half way
Tom - 12/Aug/04

Standard 5.10d
ted - 17/May/05

Hard work more than technical. The top crack is the cruz, requiring some painfull jamming and enough strength to hang on, hard reach through for initial sloper is rewarded with higher more positive holds. I found the very top section getting off the route direct scary though, as usual at Milestone.Perhaps thats why it gets E3.
Si - 08/Jun/05

BMC guide suggests this gives a 'thunderpump'. i didnt find that but i did find it quite painful, awkward and technical. i think you might struggle to place gear higher than that which you can place from the mid-height ledge so make sure what you place. the top holds arent the jugs youd hope for - committing. very good route.
ksjs - 29/Sep/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 33
    hard E4 0 of 11
    E4 0 of 11
    easy E4 0 of 11
    hard E3 3 of 11
    E3 4 of 11
    easy E3 3 of 11
    hard E2 1 of 11
    E2 0 of 11
    easy E2 0 of 11
    hard 6a 0 of 11
    6a 0 of 11
    easy 6a 0 of 11
    hard 5c 1 of 11
    5c 8 of 11
    easy 5c 2 of 11
    hard 5b 0 of 11
    5b 0 of 11
    easy 5b 0 of 11
    3 Stars 2 of 11
    2 Stars 9 of 11
    1 Star 0 of 11
    0 Stars 0 of 11
    Bag of ..... 0 of 11

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