Gates of MordorRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 33
Adjacent Routes
16m. The pod and leaning hand-crack give a withering pitch. The route swallows medium Friends aplenty and, though the initial groove is a bit of a grovel, the crux is right at the very top. USER COMMENTS
A great route, with loads of gear for E3, if you can hang around to place it! I found the initial wide crack fine on its own (good holds in the back of the recess) without using the thin left hand crack.
Great route - pumpy! Good rest half way
Standard 5.10d
Hard work more than technical. The top crack is the cruz, requiring some painfull jamming and enough strength to hang on, hard reach through for initial sloper is rewarded with higher more positive holds. I found the very top section getting off the route direct scary though, as usual at Milestone.Perhaps thats why it gets E3.
BMC guide suggests this gives a 'thunderpump'. i didnt find that but i did find it quite painful, awkward and technical. i think you might struggle to place gear higher than that which you can place from the mid-height ledge so make sure what you place. the top holds arent the jugs youd hope for - committing. very good route. |