Route Grade Votings
18m. A fierce thin finger crack leads to a band of overhangs. Pull into the steep leaning groove and finish up this. London Pride, E5 6b, 5c, climbed to the roof then took a hanging belay on the arete on old bolts before finishing up the face right of the slanting groove.
So whatever happened to London Pride? Climb the thin crack to the OH, step R and climb the awkward groove round the arete. It's not a straight line, but it is consistent in terms of its grade. The direct finish over the OH is safer if you trust the pegs, but at least a grade harder. The old bolts offer dubious protection on the top wall and one is very hard to clip- the top one? The grade is E5 6a/b.
So whatever happened to 'Which way up Mr Rothko'? Paul Evans' route couldn't have been misspelt (sp?) more often if it had been reported in The Guardian and now suffers the further ignominy of being absorbed by a loaf of bread!
Now 6b since the appearance of a good left handhold below and left of the first peg in the upper groove. This resulted from a flake (and climber!) becoming detached from the rock. The pegs are still OK for the short falls likely, but are showing signs of age. An excellent route - get it done soon - the pegs may be v hard to replace.
I have read some comments elsewhere on the net casting doubt on Paul's ascent of Which Way up Mr Rothko. (Named after Mark Rothkos paintings being mistakenly hung upside down at an exhibition)My recollection of his ascent (I held his ropes) is better than his when I chatted to him about it a couple of weeks ago. Paul abbed in to where London Pride goes right and led his direct variant from there (which I thought was an odd thing to do at the time). I didnt follow. Paul is/was an awesome boulderer and it sounds like he originally undergraded it at 6B.