Plexity

3 Stars
Pumpy
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Mother's Pride < Perplexity  |  Remembrance Day > Day Dream >>


22m. A fine long pitch up a steep crack in the centre of the wall. Follow it through a series of bulges to a rest on the right. Traverse awkwardly left above the roof and sprint to the top.
FA. Joe Brown 1957

USER COMMENTS

An excellent route but is hard for hvs - make sure you put a good runner in the crack before moving back left for the crux because you will probably find you haven't got the energy to hang onto the sandy holds to place any more gear until you get to the top!
hans - 06/Sep/04

Thought this was a very average route and definitely not worth 3 stars! Good gear though, awkward climbing and some dubious rock. Nowhere near as good as Great North Road.
Dave - 29/Jun/05

Its 5b in On Peak Rock, which is probably fair for the crux move back left to continue on the crack following the overhang. The climb is good up to that point, but the move left (in my view) pushes the route into the three star category. A beautiful HVS solution to an otherwise very difficult move over the overhang. Great North Road is also excellent, and more consistent. But it doesn't have any moves as startling as the one required to overcome the crux of Plexity. Loved it!
Munir Hassan - 30/Aug/05

Great route and HVS 5a*** is spot on. There is a hand jam in the top crack which when established should be enough to allow you to place gear (the lips are often sandy). Those with short arms will need to crimp at 5b+ at the move back left but I could reach.
Offwidth - 25/Jul/06

What a terrible route! One of the most disappointing routes I've done at Millstone. Never, ever worth 3 stars. Dexterity, Bond st etc are in a different league.
Tom - 27/Jul/06

Are you sure you did the right route Tom? This is a stunning line, only downside was the bird sh*t but you can scoot around that no problems.
Paul Phillips - 12/Aug/06

Tip top route. Sure, Great North Road are excellent routes, but routes like this should not be over looked. It has a classic aspect about it with the climber having to negociate overhangs and bird do do. All adds to the atmosphere.
Jon Dittman - 18/Sep/06

A great route, proven by the fact that it is compared with Great North Road. I thought the initial overhang was a difficult as the pull left near the top. The protection is bombproof all the way up. Jim
Jim Paxman - 26/Jul/08

Absolute corker. The top section is super exposed and very exciting if you run it out. Three stars and compares to any of the other classic HVSs at Millstone.
Dave Foster - 17/Nov/08

There is a bird nesting there at the moment 25/5/09 best stay away until it's gone
Geoffrey Odds - 25/May/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 98
    hard E1 0 of 33
    E1 0 of 33
    easy E1 0 of 33
    hard HVS 10 of 33
    HVS 21 of 33
    easy HVS 2 of 33
    hard VS 0 of 33
    VS 0 of 33
    easy VS 0 of 33
    hard 5b 0 of 33
    5b 0 of 33
    easy 5b 2 of 33
    hard 5a 2 of 33
    5a 29 of 33
    easy 5a 0 of 33
    hard 4c 0 of 33
    4c 0 of 33
    easy 4c 0 of 33
    3 Stars 25 of 32
    2 Stars 5 of 32
    1 Star 0 of 32
    0 Stars 1 of 32
    Bag of ..... 1 of 32

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