Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 50
The prominent arete offers one of Sella's best known climbs. The grades suggested for the pitches seem to vary. The start (the crux) is extremely polished, the rest less so. A good intro to multi-pitch climbing.</br>1) 5, 16m. Hard moves over a bulge, then trend left to ledges.</br>2) 4+, 20m. Continue to another stance.</br>3) 5 (VS), 20m. Follow a small groove to a tricky bulge (3 bolts). Pull over this then use the lower-off on the left or continue to the top using a few easy-to-place wires.</br>Descent - Make two abseils down the line. Alternatively, walk right along the ridge to reach the Ojo de Odra cave from behind
Do yourself a favour, take some wires and do the last pitch in full, it's the best bit. And the descent via the cave is great fun too. My vote for grades is 5+, 4+/5, 5+
The top pitch isnt completly bolted, which is a shame. Take some wires and complete the route...its worth it.
Marion is a bit over-rated: it's polished, the moves are all a bit ordinary and only the situation makes it worthwhile. It does go right to the top so it's a 'proper' route! Guide grades about right, maybe 5 to get off the ground.
Getting off the ground and the top pitch felt the hardest to me.
I felt it was well-spaced bolted on the second pitch at one place. The grades of the pitches was around 5 but maybee some harder the first and the last pitches
Getting off the ground was the hardest move for me. I climbed the route to the chains at the top with two additional medium sized wires above the last bolt. It's 5+, 4, 4+ in my opinion.
The first pitch is now very polished (shame) 5+. The second pitch has a bolt missing (big bold run out). And the top pitch is becoming pretty shiny. 5+. I certainly climbed other 5+ routes at Sella that were much easier.
The crux is getting off the ground and mantelling onto the block. Ran the first 2 pitches into one twin 60's straight forward after the start. Top pitch awkward possible hard 4b poss 4c and 3 bolts not 2 only a couple of wires needed, with bolts can't be VS and bomber wires anywhere u want to place them.