Marión Top 50

3 Stars
 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Anglopithecus Britaniensis < Mister Pi  |  El gran coscorrón > Nido de Piratas >>


The prominent arete offers one of Sella's best known climbs. The grades suggested for the pitches seem to vary. The start (the crux) is extremely polished, the rest less so. A good intro to multi-pitch climbing.
1) 5, 16m. Hard moves over a bulge, then trend left to ledges.
2) 4+, 20m. Continue to another stance.
3) 5 (VS), 20m. Follow a small groove to a tricky bulge (3 bolts). Pull over this then use the lower-off on the left or continue to the top using a few easy-to-place wires.
Descent - Make two abseils down the line. Alternatively, walk right along the ridge to reach the Ojo de Odra cave from behind.

USER COMMENTS

Do yourself a favour, take some wires and do the last pitch in full, it's the best bit. And the descent via the cave is great fun too. My vote for grades is 5+, 4+/5, 5+
Simon Caldwell - 03/Mar/04

The top pitch isnt completly bolted, which is a shame. Take some wires and complete the route...its worth it.
Just to add my two pennys worth, I reckon the grades go 5, 5, 5+
Ewan - 17/Jul/04

Marion is a bit over-rated: it's polished, the moves are all a bit ordinary and only the situation makes it worthwhile. It does go right to the top so it's a 'proper' route! Guide grades about right, maybe 5 to get off the ground.
Derek Morton - 19/Oct/04

Getting off the ground and the top pitch felt the hardest to me.
Paul Winder - 05/Dec/04

I felt it was well-spaced bolted on the second pitch at one place. The grades of the pitches was around 5 but maybee some harder the first and the last pitches
Kzackris - 07/Dec/04

Getting off the ground was the hardest move for me. I climbed the route to the chains at the top with two additional medium sized wires above the last bolt. It's 5+, 4, 4+ in my opinion.
Andy Emms - 03/Jan/05

The first pitch is now very polished (shame) 5+. The second pitch has a bolt missing (big bold run out). And the top pitch is becoming pretty shiny. 5+. I certainly climbed other 5+ routes at Sella that were much easier.
Graham at Aston - 23/May/05

The crux is getting off the ground and mantelling onto the block. Ran the first 2 pitches into one twin 60's straight forward after the start. Top pitch awkward possible hard 4b poss 4c and 3 bolts not 2 only a couple of wires needed, with bolts can't be VS and bomber wires anywhere u want to place them.
Michael - 03/Jan/07

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