Dexterity

2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< April Arete < Dextrous Hare  |  Cioch Corner > Mayday >>


20m. Great jamming up the crack cleaving the wall. Where it thins, either pull out left, or better and pumpier, go direct, which feels more like E1. Traverse off, or choose a way to the top.
FA. Harold Drasdo 1957

USER COMMENTS

pull left...you know it makes sense
Adam - 19/May/02

Pull left and your a wimp, you know its the purity of the line that counts.
Iain Fisher - 03/Oct/02

is it a jamming crack? i didnt jam, and pulling out left is definantly for wimps...
ap - 29/Jan/03

The direct finish is simply superb. Very pumpy climbing, with some technical foot work. There may be birds nesting in the recess at the very top - beware!
Nick Smith - 10/Jun/03

Not sure how you climb the lower crack without jamming, seems to me you'd just make it hard for yourself?
Al Evans - 07/Jul/03

Solid jamming with rests until halfway, then go for top ! Superb and safe.

No in situ birds nest this weekend.
GrahamD - 01/Sep/03

I wish I could pull left!
I can get to within 4 feet of the left ledge then fail miserably every time!!!!!
Eoghain Bedford - 15/Dec/03

fanatastiv jamming to leaning headwall, but i spent so much time trying to lace it with gear i was to knackered to pull through the moves when i finally went for it and took a nice big fall on to solid gear. I skanked of left at HVS 5a in the end
Jon Greengrass - 15/Feb/04

The gear is too good for E1, nice and steady till the top where it really kicks in. Don't hang around too long or you'll get pumped!
Ropeboy - 16/May/05

Seconded the left way and found it really quite hard, but i hate cracks.
Adam Moroz - 10/Jun/05

Superb and safe, with good rests. The definitive Millstone HVS.
KB - 20/Sep/05

Great route. If you liked Bond Street, you`ll love this.
Mick B - 09/Oct/05

Lovely jamming. Very hard work at the top though - had to slink off left for the easier finish.
Glen - 17/Mar/06

if you pull left you will miss the crux and up to there pretty strait forward and not very pumpy, if you like jams!
jamesturnbull - 13/Aug/06

did this on me first ever trip to the grit. utterly desperate. cant jam for s*** and kinda laybacked and heaved me way up. was well up for pulling left but realised i had gone to far up and so had to finish it off. surely this must be e1.
paulr - 09/Oct/06

Definitely HVS. Like with any technique specific route, its bound to feel harder if you can't do the required technique. Going right is only hard for one move, has a more natural line and is more in keeping with the character of the rest of the route. Don't place too much gear or you might use it.
Jon Leighton - 01/Oct/07

Seconded after having only done Eartha. Tough warm up route but kicks arms into action. Bit of jammy laybacking nearer the top. 'Had' to follow leader off left..!
Dave Foster - 15/Sep/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 96
    hard E1 0 of 10
    E1 0 of 10
    easy E1 6 of 10
    hard HVS 4 of 10
    HVS 0 of 10
    easy HVS 0 of 10
    hard VS 0 of 10
    VS 0 of 10
    easy VS 0 of 10
    hard 5c 0 of 44
    5c 0 of 44
    easy 5c 0 of 44
    hard 5b 2 of 44
    5b 37 of 44
    easy 5b 4 of 44
    hard 5a 1 of 44
    5a 0 of 44
    easy 5a 0 of 44
    3 Stars 13 of 42
    2 Stars 28 of 42
    1 Star 1 of 42
    0 Stars 0 of 42
    Bag of ..... 0 of 42

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