Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 96
20m. Great jamming up the crack cleaving the wall. Where it thins, either pull out left, or better and pumpier, go direct, which feels more like E1. Traverse off, or choose a way to the top.
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pull left...you know it makes sense
Pull left and your a wimp, you know its the purity of the line that counts.
is it a jamming crack? i didnt jam, and pulling out left is definantly for wimps...
The direct finish is simply superb. Very pumpy climbing, with some technical foot work. There may be birds nesting in the recess at the very top - beware!
Not sure how you climb the lower crack without jamming, seems to me you'd just make it hard for yourself?
Solid jamming with rests until halfway, then go for top ! Superb and safe.
I wish I could pull left!
fanatastiv jamming to leaning headwall, but i spent so much time trying to lace it with gear i was to knackered to pull through the moves when i finally went for it and took a nice big fall on to solid gear. I skanked of left at HVS 5a in the end
The gear is too good for E1, nice and steady till the top where it really kicks in. Don't hang around too long or you'll get pumped!
Seconded the left way and found it really quite hard, but i hate cracks.
Superb and safe, with good rests. The definitive Millstone HVS.
Great route. If you liked Bond Street, you`ll love this.
Lovely jamming. Very hard work at the top though - had to slink off left for the easier finish.
if you pull left you will miss the crux and up to there pretty strait forward and not very pumpy, if you like jams!
did this on me first ever trip to the grit. utterly desperate. cant jam for s*** and kinda laybacked and heaved me way up. was well up for pulling left but realised i had gone to far up and so had to finish it off. surely this must be e1.
Definitely HVS. Like with any technique specific route, its bound to feel harder if you can't do the required technique. Going right is only hard for one move, has a more natural line and is more in keeping with the character of the rest of the route. Don't place too much gear or you might use it.
Seconded after having only done Eartha. Tough warm up route but kicks arms into action. Bit of jammy laybacking nearer the top. 'Had' to follow leader off left..!