Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 52
22m. Climb the balancy arete of the Cioch - hard to start - to its tip, and a finish up the exposed arete of Cioch Corner.
Hardish start, then a jugfest
Yep,jugfest indeed,but only as far as the tip of the Cioch. If you take the outside line up Cioch Corner its much more exposed & certainly no jugfest.The inside line is for wimps!
Couple of hard moves at bottom then easier. Run out in middle but easy climbing. Take the exposed front up the top corner, feels a lot harder then severe.
There is a notch about 5m up the arete and I thought reaching it was harder than HVS 5a. With this talk of "jugfest" I wonder whether I took the wrong line: left hand on arete, right hand using thin crack next to Supra Direct, feet on smears or on the thin crack. Then after that jug: delicious!