1 Stars
 S 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Hacker < Close Shave  |  Brumal > Eartha >>

Left of the main groove, follow the line of cracks and corners left then right to a ledge. Escape rightwards with great care.
FA. John Loy early 1960s


Only has severe because of loose finish - easy peasy
LizzyB - 19/May/02

Lizzy B's comments about loose finish is right, though I think it rates 4a from the early section, too.
ander - 22/Apr/03

This is the worst climb I have ever done in my life. Do not under any circumstances climb this route!!!
great mo - 06/May/05

Don't agree with great mo; thought this OK.
Graham - 06/May/05

Agree with mo, bag of ...
monks - 06/May/05

A good introduction to loose, chossy traverses and finishes. If your second isn't expecting this, expect them to be unhappy with you, and remember to protect the traverse with them in mind.
Dominion - 18/Jul/05

Didn't look in a guide and did a direct finish to boomerang. Some pretty good climbing if you stay between the parallel cracks above the ledge where boomerang traverses right, reminiscent of a mini avalanche wall at Curbar. Finish is on pretty suspect rock though with a difficult top out.
Max_01 - 01/Aug/05

There's one bit at about 2/3 height that just about warrants 4a and a star. The rest is VDiff at most, and rubbish.
Simon Caldwell - 12/Dec/05

Very easy climbing on the most part, with loads of cracks and breaks to place protection. The crack and corner at 2/3 height are the only technical bit of climbing. the traverse is easy and not really that loose, compared to say the top out on Gim Crack, but the foot ledge is muddy and a bit slippery.
Jon Greengrass - 12/Mar/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 33
    hard HS 0 of 11
    HS 0 of 11
    easy HS 0 of 11
    hard S 0 of 11
    S 4 of 11
    easy S 2 of 11
    hard HVD 5 of 11
    HVD 0 of 11
    easy HVD 0 of 11
    hard 4b 0 of 11
    4b 0 of 11
    easy 4b 0 of 11
    hard 4a 0 of 11
    4a 6 of 11
    easy 4a 0 of 11
    hard 3c 5 of 11
    3c 0 of 11
    easy 3c 0 of 11
    3 Stars 0 of 11
    2 Stars 0 of 11
    1 Star 3 of 11
    0 Stars 3 of 11
    Bag of ..... 5 of 11

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