Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 96
28m. Climb the slippery crack splitting the right-hand side of the slab as it trends leftwards - poorly protected. Move back slightly right and then make a short traverse to a good ledge above the centre of the slab (possible belay). Climb the corner-crack to a ledge then finish direct with care. It is also possible to move right round the arete to a chimney with a loose exit.
Why the recommended finish? Surely most people go straight up the chimney above the slab?
if you like slabs you'll love this route, easy but great fun.
great fun, more like! Miss most of the difficulties by running up the slab to the first slot!
A nice warmup for MAYDAY,with a bizzare exit thru the chimney.
Polished to ....!
Straight up the groove/chimmney above the crack is the obvious finish and the one given in the definative guide. A good route
Lovely route, and 2 very distinct styles to it. Technical, delicate slab, then juggy, well protected, finish. Did the direct finish.
The slab is great - the crack is alright - the step into the chimney is grand and the chimney itself is a careful scramble. Its just about a Severe I feel- do Mutiny Crack in Burbage North if you want a HS. Worth 2 stars just for the slab and the view at the belay.
Protected seemed reasonable to me. Felt tricky for the grade though, but I kept my feet in the crack, it might have been easier if I'd smeared on the slab?
I did the route while still a bit green after recent rain and smearing was not an option. Canít say the gear inspired confidence and will admit to a sense of relief on making the crossing move without mishap.