Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
Climb the lower slab then the bulges on better holds, left then right. The right-hand variation start is 6c and fingery.
This route and the 5+ to the right now have new top pitches. There is also a new 2 pitch route to the left (4+, 5a) which is probably the easiest route on the crag.
Don't do as I did and head for the flaky jugs out left on about 2/3 up pitch 1. It doesn't go that way...also the 6c variation start is very sequency but very good indeed.
The flaky jugs give a good way of doing it but harder than on the R. The bolt at this point sticks out a long way!
Ignore guide at bulge route goes right then left - a bit precarious but the holds are there.