Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 50
An excellent and elegant pitch up the long arete, managing to avoid all the crucial sections on the regular route. The loss of a flake/hold has made the lower section harder and bolder; it is still a bit hollow but the positions on the upper arete are superb.
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There are hard, runout moves direct up the arete above the good ledge at half-height - much harder than HVS 5a! Sensibly avoid these by skipping right on to the well chalked jugs of Lyon's Corner House, and then left again back to the jugs on the arete.
The start up the arete is unprotected until 20ft and then the base of the crack/flake is loose. The crucial very well chalked hand hold just above the starting moves is also loose. Only a question of when these are going to come away. Serious - I backed off and did Lyons House corner instead which was excellent!!
Climb the arete on its left hand side to the loose crack/flake at a hard E1 5b - done by Nigel Berry on 20.9.02.
The 'crucial (?) well chalked hand hold' is no more!
Anyone care to regrade this? Tried it last night, not knowing the hold had gone, and couldn't figure out why I couldn't get off the ledge and why it was described as 'well protected'!
Yes! I`d cheerfully suggest 5c if you`re tackling the arete direct from the mid ledge. You can take two mantles just right at about 5a or use much easier rock further right still.
Tried this on Monday and realised that the flake you need to bot hput in runners and layback up at about 4m up is very loose and about to fall off. Route is shortly going to need a significant re-grade when it comes off - harder climbing unless it leaves a jug behind, and no until way off the ground.
Route does not require regrade."Loose flake" is only loose at the bottom with solid runners just higher up.
This route has not changed over the past few years. It always required a few steady moves up to the flake and runners.
This must be one of those routes that takes different people in different ways. I'd crossed out "HVS 5a" in my guide and written "VS 4b" but wondered whether there actually was any move harder than 4a. Doesn't often happen to me this way round.
Mildly bold, low in the grade and excllent.
Got to agree I thought it was fairly mild. Unprotected for the first 4-5 mtrs but easy climbing. What a wicked route! Why is this not 3 star?
Did it again today - looks like another flake has gone off the lower section! Still easy HVS but bold to the 1st runner.