Lyon's Corner House

3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Eros < Lyon's Corner House Direct  |  Erb > Twikker >>

30m. A long devious trip up the left edge of the bay that can be split at a belay in the cave but is usually done in one run-out. A short awkward groove (4b) leads into the cave. Up the corner to the roof then traverse to the left arete and make difficult moves to the security of a narrow ledge. The leaning wall right of the arete leads up and left to a finish up the well-positioned arete.
FA. Kit Twyford, George Leaver 1957


The crux is definately the move coming out of the cave - place your gear as far out as you can then don't stop moving until you've got to the ledge. This climb has a great variety of moves.
Albie - 02/Sep/02

My first HVS lead so I'm biased! But it's very varied, a good but scary move coming out of the cave, nice face/arete climbing after. And it's one of the few Millstone climbs that isn't s*dding crack-jamming
jamesrobert - 02/Jan/03

Enjoyable moves, a nice airy arete and a compact/solid top out (A rarity for Millstone!).
Paul Winder - 08/Jul/04

Quality all round HVS fare!
Salamanda - 01/Aug/04

Loverly enjoyable lower end HVS climbing. Just a tad tricky round the lip to the ledge then very steady to the top, well protected.
shaun walby - 12/Sep/05

top climb with a bit of everything in it. the move out of the cave is the bottle crux, but think the move off the higher small ledge is the tecnical crux stood there thinking why am i finding this bit harder bit balency onto arete
chris elfleet - 29/Jan/06

Really enjoyed it. Agree, the hardest part is smeary rock over left, out of the cave and onto the face. Arete is a joy; great positive holds, massive exposure and bomber gear. Felt very long for a grit route though!
Dave Foster - 14/Jul/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 85
    hard E1 0 of 28
    E1 0 of 28
    easy E1 0 of 28
    hard HVS 0 of 28
    HVS 18 of 28
    easy HVS 10 of 28
    hard VS 0 of 28
    VS 0 of 28
    easy VS 0 of 28
    hard 5b 0 of 29
    5b 0 of 29
    easy 5b 0 of 29
    hard 5a 0 of 29
    5a 18 of 29
    easy 5a 11 of 29
    hard 4c 0 of 29
    4c 0 of 29
    easy 4c 0 of 29
    3 Stars 24 of 28
    2 Stars 4 of 28
    1 Star 0 of 28
    0 Stars 0 of 28
    Bag of ..... 0 of 28

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