Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 85
30m. A long devious trip up the left edge of the bay that can be split at a belay in the cave but is usually done in one run-out. A short awkward groove (4b) leads into the cave. Up the corner to the roof then traverse to the left arete and make difficult moves to the security of a narrow ledge. The leaning wall right of the arete leads up and left to a finish up the well-positioned arete.
The crux is definately the move coming out of the cave - place your gear as far out as you can then don't stop moving until you've got to the ledge. This climb has a great variety of moves.
My first HVS lead so I'm biased! But it's very varied, a good but scary move coming out of the cave, nice face/arete climbing after. And it's one of the few Millstone climbs that isn't s*dding crack-jamming
Enjoyable moves, a nice airy arete and a compact/solid top out (A rarity for Millstone!).
Quality all round HVS fare!
Loverly enjoyable lower end HVS climbing. Just a tad tricky round the lip to the ledge then very steady to the top, well protected.
top climb with a bit of everything in it. the move out of the cave is the bottle crux, but think the move off the higher small ledge is the tecnical crux stood there thinking why am i finding this bit harder bit balency onto arete
Really enjoyed it. Agree, the hardest part is smeary rock over left, out of the cave and onto the face. Arete is a joy; great positive holds, massive exposure and bomber gear. Felt very long for a grit route though!