Erb

2 Stars
Crimpy
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Lyon's Corner House Direct < Lyon's Corner House  |  Twikker > Lubric >>


28m. From the cave, climb left then right to pass the central overlap awkwardly by finger jamming, laybacking and a tough mantelshelf. Finish up the wide gritty crack splitting the boulders.
FA. Alan Clarke early 1960s. FFA. Tom Proctor 1975

USER COMMENTS

Not the clearest of route descriptions, and the line in the guidebook is a bit off. Head directly for the short wide crack at the central overlap, passing it on the right (mantelshelf), then up for the long chalked break (number 2.5 friend!) and another mantelshelf (crux move?). The photo in the guide on p.185 shows the line well. A quick move up and then traverse left to finish.
Nick Smith - 25/Jun/02

worth 3 stars
mark s davies - 02/Jun/03

The route is obvious surely, and the beta is unnecessary Nick. Its an excellent varied route, i`d say very mentally taxing for onsight leaders at the grade, but technically cool.
Salamanda - 01/Aug/04

More like E1 5b, surely. Plenty of rests, good gear... Be confident and it'll go like a breeze
chris j - 19/Sep/05

I thought steady E25c. Consistently interesting climbing with good gear and great (hands off) rests.Three star route for me.
Mick B - 09/Oct/05

Have to agree with Mick B, really enjoyed this route espically the top head wall. Grade seems about fair three stars for me too..
Polish Stu - 17/Aug/06

Very nice route - lots of different moves, interesting situations and gear where it's needed. Totally fair at E2 5c. About as hard as Regents St. Tricky top move.
Tom - 12/Jul/07

what a fantastic route thought the crux was the final moves as i didn't find the overhang to hard. good gear but hard, i don't no how people can grade it E1 5b that would mean its the same grade as milsoms minion.
robert bridges - 27/Sep/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 112
    hard E3 0 of 38
    E3 0 of 38
    easy E3 0 of 38
    hard E2 1 of 38
    E2 26 of 38
    easy E2 8 of 38
    hard E1 3 of 38
    E1 0 of 38
    easy E1 0 of 38
    hard 6a 0 of 38
    6a 0 of 38
    easy 6a 0 of 38
    hard 5c 0 of 38
    5c 27 of 38
    easy 5c 7 of 38
    hard 5b 4 of 38
    5b 0 of 38
    easy 5b 0 of 38
    3 Stars 19 of 36
    2 Stars 17 of 36
    1 Star 0 of 36
    0 Stars 0 of 36
    Bag of ..... 0 of 36

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