Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 22
The deep, twisting chimney is worthwhile and interesting. It is at the top end of the grade for those not used to 3D climbing.</br>1) 5, 12m. Enter the fissure steeply (polished) then continue up the groove and narrowing slab above to a choice of stances.</br>2) 4+, 28m. Continue until is possible to traverse out left onto the rib, finish up this. Alternatively, and a bit less exciting, continue up the slab as for Prats.
First bolt is thin, bent and rusted, maybe OK, but maybe not. Second is better, but not brilliant. Perhaps consider some trad gear to back them up.
Great climb. I climb here regularly and there doesn't seem to be any mention of the excellent crag high on your right about halfway along the approach from the parking. There's about 12 routes of about 20mts all in the grades between 5+ and 6b. All newly bolted and very enjoyable.
One of the hangers on the first stance has been removed, so its best to carry on to the stance in the second cave - - make sure you've got enough quick draws :o)
all now newly bolted and plenty of them, though on the second pitch there didn't appear to be any on the leftwards rib finish
new bolts now
2 very old ring-pull bolts low down, the first proper bolt seemed quite high (though easy climbing to get there). The left hand finish wasn't terribly exciting (what a shame there isn't a bolt to protect a finish up the top of the rib out of the left of the cave!). Next time I'd take the slab finish and do the route in a single pitch.