2 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Crusty Corner < Quiddity  |  Lyons Corner House Direct > Stone Dri >>

The open scoop gives nice technical climbing past lots of rather tired small-wire slots to a leftwards exit. The climb was once described as "being a bit like a well-protected Green Death". Well, it is a groove in a quarry.
FFA. Steve Chadwick 1969


A similar grade to Great Portland Street; gear gets better as you gain height.
John Yates - 06/Mar/02

Poor rps at the start then better gear inc Friend 0 in a slot on the right. Crux is getting into the final groove.
Chris Craggs - 22/May/04

Pretty stiff and stressfull crux I reckon. Don`t bypass placements whatever yer do!
Salamanda - 01/Aug/04

The hardest E1 at Millstone I reckon! Take those small nuts.
Tom - 12/Aug/04

Awesome route. Requires decisive footwork and a determination not to fall. I guess it gives an idea of what hard climbing might be like as one progresses through the grades.
Jon Dittman - 18/Sep/06

Very techical but not pumpy. Delicate footwork, smearing and bridging, very delightful moves! Seconded this but wouldn't have liked to lead it! My partner put very poor gear and if we would have fallen off the crux he would have decked. Need to know what you're doing on this one.
Mario - 10/Sep/07

Well-protected if you have a rack of specialist gear. I had RPs, swedges, micro-cams and peanuts and placed about 8 pieces of solid gear. Tricky and very technical crux but soft for E1 nonetheless.
Julie Mair - 18/Nov/07

I found this route easier than I thought. you need a size 0 friend and lots of small wires. the first section of the climb is easy. then when I reached the crack before the crux I placed 6 runners as I thought there where no more runners after that section it turns out there was and I had ran out of quickdraws and the right size runners, but it didn't seem to bad and I was at the top in no time, excellent route
robert bridges - 16/May/08

Requires a steady approach for the first 20ft after which the gear is fine. It often looks green, but the footholds turn out to be ok. Nice technical climbing and quite different to most of the similar graded - more thuggy routes at Millstone.
Jon Leighton - 22/Aug/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 123
    hard E2 0 of 41
    E2 0 of 41
    easy E2 1 of 41
    hard E1 3 of 41
    E1 22 of 41
    easy E1 6 of 41
    hard HVS 9 of 41
    HVS 0 of 41
    easy HVS 0 of 41
    hard 5c 0 of 42
    5c 0 of 42
    easy 5c 1 of 42
    hard 5b 6 of 42
    5b 24 of 42
    easy 5b 10 of 42
    hard 5a 1 of 42
    5a 0 of 42
    easy 5a 0 of 42
    3 Stars 4 of 40
    2 Stars 28 of 40
    1 Star 7 of 40
    0 Stars 1 of 40
    Bag of ..... 0 of 40

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