Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 120
The open scoop gives nice technical climbing past lots of rather tired small-wire slots to a leftwards exit. The climb was once described as "being a bit like a well-protected Green Death". Well, it is a groove in a quarry.
A similar grade to Great Portland Street; gear gets better as you gain height.
Poor rps at the start then better gear inc Friend 0 in a slot on the right. Crux is getting into the final groove.
Pretty stiff and stressfull crux I reckon. Don`t bypass placements whatever yer do!
The hardest E1 at Millstone I reckon! Take those small nuts.
Awesome route. Requires decisive footwork and a determination not to fall. I guess it gives an idea of what hard climbing might be like as one progresses through the grades.
Very techical but not pumpy. Delicate footwork, smearing and bridging, very delightful moves! Seconded this but wouldn't have liked to lead it! My partner put very poor gear and if we would have fallen off the crux he would have decked. Need to know what you're doing on this one.
Well-protected if you have a rack of specialist gear. I had RPs, swedges, micro-cams and peanuts and placed about 8 pieces of solid gear. Tricky and very technical crux but soft for E1 nonetheless.
I found this route easier than I thought. you need a size 0 friend and lots of small wires. the first section of the climb is easy. then when I reached the crack before the crux I placed 6 runners as I thought there where no more runners after that section it turns out there was and I had ran out of quickdraws and the right size runners, but it didn't seem to bad and I was at the top in no time, excellent route
Requires a steady approach for the first 20ft after which the gear is fine. It often looks green, but the footholds turn out to be ok. Nice technical climbing and quite different to most of the similar graded - more thuggy routes at Millstone.