Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 60
An intimidating layback up the imposing straight crack - fortunately it is easier than it looks, though the right wall is often a bit green and slippery. Threaded chockstones or large cams protect. Those heading Stateside might want to 'off-width' it just for the practice - a whole different ball-game at 5.9!
Very committing layback with feet on slippy green stuff. Only for a very positive day out!!
Could this be the most hideous route at millstone? Committed layback with feet on pure slime protected by a slung chockstone (or 5 friend). Darstadly
Committing as a layback but perfectly secure and fine at the grade when dry. Offwidthing the bottom section is also OK if you have the skills. The top section just demands a layback. Probably HVS now without a Friend 5 as the bottom chockstone moves but should be graded VS 4c with a gear warning.
Maybe four feet below the top there is a short section where the laybacking is less positive. I fell from here so am biased, but other climbers helping me after were either being very nice or agreed with me that it is HVS and committing.
HVS 4c without a monster cam - the middle layback goes on a bit!