Great West Road

3 Stars
 E3 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Xanadu Direct < Adios Amigo  |  The Trumpton Anarchist > Edge Lane >>

Fine climbing with two impressive and contrasting pitches.</br>1) E2 5b, 18m. Layback up the huge flake to a tiny ledge. The upper part is steeper and leads to a massive terrace. Escape or:</br>2) E3 5b, 16m. The upper arete is delicate and effectively unprotected. The ancient golo/bolt should not be trusted!
FAA. Dave Johnson 1957. FFA. Al Evans 1965


First pitch solid E2 with a slippery green wall to run your feet up. The top pitch is an E3 horror show and it is best to scramble up the corner at the back as described in Paul Nunns guide.
Simon Lee - 02/Sep/04

You can clip a peg on Trumpton Anarchist by reaching leftwards around the arete from the ledge halfway up the top arete. It may not be cricket but i certainly clipped it. E3 without this for sure.
jez p - 29/Aug/05

Glad to see the arete has been upgraded to E3. Graded E1 when I first did it. Thought I was going to die.
Simon Lee - 04/Jul/08

had quite the experience with this one yesterday. massively powered out at the top of the first pitch then backed off the top of the second. decided it wasn't a good day to die. nonetheless it strangely seemed a very rewarding experience!
Evan Holdsworth - 16/Aug/10

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 29
    hard E4 0 of 1
    E4 0 of 1
    easy E4 0 of 1
    hard E3 0 of 1
    E3 0 of 1
    easy E3 0 of 1
    hard E2 1 of 1
    E2 0 of 1
    easy E2 0 of 1
    hard 5c 0 of 15
    5c 0 of 15
    easy 5c 2 of 15
    hard 5b 9 of 15
    5b 4 of 15
    easy 5b 0 of 15
    hard 5a 0 of 15
    5a 0 of 15
    easy 5a 0 of 15
    3 Stars 9 of 13
    2 Stars 4 of 13
    1 Star 0 of 13
    0 Stars 0 of 13
    Bag of ..... 0 of 13

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.