Great North Road Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Detour < The Hunter House Road Toad  |  By-Pass > Quality Street >>


32m. The most popular route in the quarry, and amongst the best HVS routes in the Peak, up the magnificent long corner. It has a crucial central layback/bridging groove and tricky final roof. It can be split into three shorter pitches if required, though is usually done as one huge run-out.
FA. Peter Biven, Trevor Peck 1956. FFA. Joe Brown 1957

USER COMMENTS

Two tricky sections - entering the layback/bridging groove, and passing the top overhang. No more than 5a, but ridiculously tiring carrying and placing all that gear. An absolute must.
John Yates - 02/Jan/02

Awesome route. Got so knackered on the layback had to sit on the midway ledge for five minutes to get my breath back. It's a doddle from there though so it was all okay.
Nick Galpin - 20/Aug/02

Awesome fearful twisting corner. It looks hard and oh so impressive - try it and you can ab off when you get stuck I though. The first ramp is a scramble, but the difficulties leap out at you. It has an alpine feel with in-situ wooden chocks and big gear placements (I used all my old hexes). The crux arrives before the ledge, when you don't expect it. But the gear is flawless. The roof section is a breeze (even with tired arms) delicate and airy. And too soon it is all over. Best route on the crag!
Mark Fletcher - 23/Sep/03

Utterly, utterly brilliant!
RobD - 26/Apr/04

Brilliant route, but I found the reaching the roof just as difficult as the lower layback section.
Chris the Tall - 20/May/04

One of the best hvs's on grit without a doubt - make sure you've got lots of stamina before setting off on it (eat lots of bananas)
hans - 01/Aug/04

A climb I have wanted to do for ages, it just looks so impressive!
Ended up queuing even on a day that was so hot that no right-minded person would be climbing on grit. Also neither my partner nor myself had brought any chalk; just shows you that you don't really need it. Loved the wooden chocks (Are they safe? I just put a sling on one and kept going, seemed solid), middle section was strenuous, roof was fine. Very pleased, big grin once I'd topped out.
MeMeMe - 09/Aug/04

Brilliant, though a shame itís not 10 pitches long. The sort of route I just want to keep on going....
Paul Winder - 26/Apr/05

It was my aim for the day but was advised that I didn't have enough runners (8) or gear for a route of that length, so I improvised a couple more and the wooden chock helped save one. The gear is bomber so left longer spaces than I usually would. Left me with warm glow and a week long high.
Munir Hassan - 30/Aug/05

what a climb recently did this route after leaving it a year or so to make sure it was onsite after i thrutched up it the first time. up to the ledge fine on the first ledge tricky the wooden block is in the way if you put a sling on it.love laybacking so dont stop for gear till at 2nd ledge found the bit up to the roof tough once at the roof eases big time top top route
chris elfleet - 21/Nov/05

Awesome climbing. Contrary to what some people say here, this does not need to be a pumby climb. Look carefully for feet placements, they are available all the way, specially in the hard middle layback section, there are three places here were you can bridge and place gear relaxed and confidently. The top overhang is a breeze. Enjoy.
Mario - 24/Sep/06

Only found one place to bridge and place gear on the crux layback section. Maybe you need longer legs? Pumpy but awesome - a must-do route!
Julie Mair - 30/Jul/07

Previously Valkyrie on Frogatt was my favourite grit route, not so sure now is this the greatest HVS in the peak or even the greatest route??
Michael - 14/Sep/07

Great route, but very polished now at the crux, which should maybe push it up a technical grade.
Elizabeth Cripps - 20/May/08

A Top 50 route that lives up to the hype.
Every bit of this climb is excelllent.
I don't think the polish on the crux affects the grade - just sustained, well protected 5a.
Luke Danger Allen - 06/Aug/08

Wanted to do this for ages, glad I left it until I was capable. Never strenuous, just a bloody long way up! Loads of rests, great gear and fantastic climbing.
Dave Foster - 15/Sep/08

What an amazing route! Did this last night in the fading light and mist/drizzle, and despite sub-prime conditions it was extremely enjoyable.
nshephard - 17/Sep/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 236
    hard E1 0 of 78
    E1 0 of 78
    easy E1 1 of 78
    hard HVS 20 of 78
    HVS 55 of 78
    easy HVS 2 of 78
    hard VS 0 of 78
    VS 0 of 78
    easy VS 0 of 78
    hard 5b 0 of 79
    5b 0 of 79
    easy 5b 3 of 79
    hard 5a 15 of 79
    5a 60 of 79
    easy 5a 1 of 79
    hard 4c 0 of 79
    4c 0 of 79
    easy 4c 0 of 79
    3 Stars 79 of 79
    2 Stars 0 of 79
    1 Star 0 of 79
    0 Stars 0 of 79
    Bag of ..... 0 of 79

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