Cleoplaca

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
 7b

Adjacent Routes
<< Ghetto Blaster < Botella/Montesinos  |  Vía Aurora > Triple Direct >>


One of the best technical challenges in the area up a fine shield of rock. The climbing is sustained and hard on the fingers with no respite. Rope-drag can be a problem at the top, so don't attempt it in one long pitch unless you have double ropes. If you have a single rope, it is best to take a hanging stance on the flake after a tricky initial section.

USER COMMENTS

Taking a hanging stance as suggested would make little difference to the rope drag higher on this pitch. It really does need to be done on double ropes, and is best as one runout. But this is probably academic as I've never seen another team on it in 15 years of driving through the Mascarat Gorge. Shame really, as it is superb!
Neil Foster - 06/Jan/07

Cool conditions recommended, along with double ropes. Do Línea caliente at Rosalia first. The climbing is easier and in a similar style, especially if the first two pitches are combined.
Johnny Woods - 27/Feb/09

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.