Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 174
Worthwhile, though the second pitch is a bit of a disappointment.
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loadsa fun! at tyhe top of my grade but felt safe with plenty gear placements and times to rest. thought it was climbing the L hand crack only - what grade is that?
the first pitch of this route should get three stars. standard VS with good gear and holds. top pitch has a loose top out and is nowhere near as good as the first. good luck with the belay.
Take three sets of big nuts and jam them in the right-hand crack, whilst climbing the left. There's a chockstone in the big left crack. I give it three stars. Good climbing and safe as houses makes it middle of the VS range.
A big boot on your left foot may be found useful, but may also get stuck and leave you free hanging off a finger lock in the right hand crack when you try to heave it out.
who keeps voting for hard VS? this is about as near to the middle of VS as routes come. Its fantastic until the second pitch which is awful.
Hard work, but worth the effort. Brilliantly protected- so give it a go!
Top quality route.. tons of gear! finger locks and toe jams....
Lurrrvly (apart from the top pitch)
The top pitch is probably worth HS 4b and feels like a separate but worthwhile climb. Anchor to the fence posts but belay on the edge. The top is a spoil heap.
Attempting this as a warm up route (by someone leading around VS) is a great way to pump out for the whole day. I climbed to the niche and downclimbed three times, running out of puff on each one (I was laybacking it though, maybe that's a mistake). Will have to come back another time!
Cider nut, i agree. Not a great warm up if you are no totally au fait with finger-locking and torqueing your feet (as i am not). Did exactly the same as you before deciding to warm up on somethin else. Obviously it started raining before i got to lead anything...!
perfect jamming fist ,hands and fingers what more could you want
Second pitch was not a disappointment at all, I thought it would make a nice 1-star VS 4c in its own right.
Finally managed this, after numerous previous attempts on two separate days, downclimbing all of them! Just felt a lot more able this time, reached my previous high point (the niche in the left crack) without too much trouble, then the rest was fine, managed to get several foot lock rests to place gear instead of getting pumped (although it was still hard work and involved some grunting). No particular reason I couldn't do it before, think I had all the required techniques but this time I managed to pull them together and knew I could keep on going - some of the hand and foot and body positions felt tenuous, but I knew I wouldn't fall off, and was also enjoying finally getting up it so didn't care if I did anyway!
Sandbagggy crack climbing toughness. Feet in the left crack all the way makes it much easier but still painful and strenuous.
First climb on a rough feeling morning. Hard if your jamming aint up to it.