Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 150
1) 5b. An excellent finger-jamming pitch. Passing the tat (care, it is tied through an ancient peg/blob of rust) is the trickiest bit.</br>2) 5b. The thin crack in the upper wall, left of the groove, has hard moves (almost 5c) low down.
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THIS ROUTE IS POLISHED TO BITS AND SHOULD BE E2 5C
Say what you like about it but its a good grade easier than Regent St. Painful on the toes though.
E2 to who? People who can't finger jam? This has always been a classic introduction to the E1 grade due to its well-protected nature - an excellent classic.
Painful - Emb 4 is much pleasanter and more interesting at the same grade
The second pitch is 5c, although still E1.
Mint, safe and 3* all the way
The climbing isn't that hard, but my toes get mashed to bits - it's just so painful! Am I doing it wrong??
Someone has removed the tat since last month, which makes the hard moves near the top a bit more runout!
it didn't kill my toes but my friggin' ankles! both feet one above the other in the wide crack at 90 degrees to each other - who can i sue? well protected though!
led this three times now, had to thread the peg the first time on lead, lucky i had my nut key. Fell off it 3rd time when i slipped just above the first peg and was held by a useless looking sideways nut placed in the flared crack i'd placed to back up the peg.
oh i forgot to say jamming your feet in the crack really kills! but is a good incentive to lcimb quickly and stops you hanging around
The first pitch is well protected for E1, but with some difficult moves. Absolutely amazing climbing especially above the tat. The second pitch is harder, but equally well protected. Definitely 3*s.
I like this climb for two reason, it forced me to use the crack exclusively and it ate all my nut placement..:)
tried the fast and light aproach to this route got to the tatt with bulging arms mashed feet and blowing like a whale,fell just above it. 1 year later slowed down lots of gear and rests if you look, still painfull on feet but breazed up it. top pitch is harder i thought. finger jamming love needed all the way up
I have always found this route hard and thought it was just me. Only 45 feet but packs it in.
SURELY A TROLL?
The scrabbling footwork of one floundering leader would have had more affect in this respect. Are you suggesting that no one should try to lead at their limit? Also if you can suggest better preparation for Yosemite I am all ears.
mmmm have to agree with FIEND here to some degree. yes trying to lead at your limit is no bad thing, this is the exact limit i am at now and find just going up on sight and pushing your limit (on climbs that suit YOU)is the best way, sure you are going to get in a few spots of bother but you can always back off.maybe for you to be ready for this climb you should be solid at HVS first? perhaps you would have to agree that practesing 20 times is a tad excessive on one route, time after time?
climbed this route today ,bit damp near the top but great well protected e1
I had not read the reply's to Simon Lee's comments about climbing embankment 3 20 times on a top rope. He wasn't practising the route prior to attempting to lead it. He was training for a trip to Yosemite. He was suggesting that someone climbing at their limit or trying to push their limit on this route would have more of an effect on the polish than him climbing it smoothly in control.
I disagree about the 2nd pitch being harder. It felt very easy. We did it after embankment 4 and it felt a full grade easier.
Lobbed full length of the route onto the first peg. Lobbed again. Lobbed again. The peg's good. Foot holds at 'that' point felt non-existent. Managed it eventually. Quality route.
The tat held from near the top, what more can I say! Oh yeah 3*
On 14/08/09 the tat failed to hold a fall and may or may not have been replaced.
A grade easier with a nice pair of stiff new boots I'd say. Don't miss the top pitch, its well worth it.
Fairly physical and hard on the ankles, but packed with gear. Why is it pegged? You can get utterly bombproof gear without the peg. Also, it's hardly polished at all, can't understand these comments.