Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 14
20m. The direct finish to Time for Tea is bold, technical and poorly protected, though at least there is a decent fall-out zone!
The RP placement appears to be totally trashed now making this a serious lead with big 'flyer' potential. Votes that it should be replaced with a good peg?
If placed well, the RP placement would (probably) hold a fall from the crux, would definately pop if you fell from the top. Keep some spare small cams for the end of the crack.
Followed Alun up this one, and must say it's one of the harder routes I've ever been on, making it at least mid-E4.
Superb direct line. The RP placement is blown out - if you can get anything tiny to stay in, it wouldn't hold a mouse, let alone a climber. But don't let this put you off - the runners at the top of the TfT crack are bomber, the fall out zone excellent, and the 6a moves are quite easy to work out (for 6a). Brilliant mid-E4.
it's a good thing that the rp slot is bust. The great quality of this route is owed to the fact that there arn't any runners beyond the top of TFT's crack. With a bomber nut at your waist, the committing and technical sequence wouldn't feel anywhere near as good.