The Mall

3 Stars
Pumpy
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Great Portland Street < White Wall  |  London Wall > Lambeth Chimney >>


22m. The sustained right-angled groove is tough at the grade, though protection is good. Watch for the gritty sloping top.
FA. Pete Biven, Trevor Peck early 1950s (at A3!) FFA. Joe Brown 1957

USER COMMENTS

Sustained VS climbing but somewhat easier than it's rather daunting appearance.
Steve Culverhouse - 07/Jan/02

Not the kind of route that I would want to repeat.. but then I hate jamming my way up corners
Adam - 19/May/02

Loved the route ... I think it should be VS 5a not 4c.
Stephen Barker - 29/Jun/02

Great route. Encourages thuggy heaving and gruntoing though. try to avoid showering stones on your second at the top.
RobS - 28/Jul/02

Agree with Stephen Barker. This is no average VS route. Deserves to be near the top of the graded list.
Brian - 30/Jul/02

Definately top of the grade. A must do climb for anybody pushing their grade. If you can lead this and Fern Crack [Stanage] you should be a HVS contender.
Albie - 02/Sep/02

Found Portland Street no harder?
vic - 13/Jun/03

Laybacked all the tricky bits on huge holds and didn't need to use a single jam (which suits me just fine). Plenty of good rests that can be used to place good gear. Definately easier than Portland Street!
Dean - 19/Aug/03

Not much jamming required on this route actually, also theres a good hold appeared at the top so the gripping sloper is no longer neccessarry. A good standard VS 4c.
al evans - 08/Sep/03

Good pro where you need it, a bit of jamming mostly laybacking. Good rest's..good crack climb at the grade but definately higher end VS.
Shaun Walby - 24/Sep/03

Laybacking on good holds, and some good jams to save on strength plus a no hands rest between the "hard" bits. A great pitch.
Jon Greengrass - 25/Jul/04

sustained excellent top-of-the-grade VS 4c+. i found some v good jugs hidden away in the crack, and used plenty of lay-backing more than jamming. a quality climb.
Charlie Pickin - 31/Aug/04

Not very hard, safe as houses and fairly good fun. Thought Gimcrack was more interesting myself (at least the bottom half, unfortunately it ends too quickly).
Matrixboy - 13/Oct/04

Good gear, good rests, good VS.
Matt_b - 05/Aug/05

A good honest VS with good gear and good variety.
GrahamD - 12/Sep/05

this is a comfortable VS, and i should say so as it was my second VS lead. sloping gritty top?... not when i did it but perhaps on occasions the rock could re-mould itself into slopingness!!! my favourite part of this climb was looking down the top of the fine young lady below me, much to her boyfriends disaproval... sucks to be you!!!
Dohnny Jawes - 10/Jul/07

When i first looked at it i thought this is going to be a hard route to do, there is lots of gear if you need it and plenty of rest spots as well, Excellent route and i think it is in the higher grade of the VS. Paul Tomo
Paul Tomo - 04/Aug/07

Used to solo it before the real climbing. Peasy. But that was 20 years ago and I could'nt climb it now.
Graham Proudlove - 11/Jun/08

Not the easiest of corners but still only good solid VS 4c. Preferred Great Harry over at Lawrencefield.
Dave Foster - 14/Jul/08

3 stars by association? Pretty ordinary.
Very sandy after rain (more then most Millstone routes)
Luke Danger Allen - 06/Aug/08

Good pitch but strenuous, at least there is opportunity to rest
paul watson - 05/Jun/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 192
    hard HVS 0 of 65
    HVS 0 of 65
    easy HVS 0 of 65
    hard VS 32 of 65
    VS 31 of 65
    easy VS 1 of 65
    hard HS 1 of 65
    HS 0 of 65
    easy HS 0 of 65
    hard 5a 0 of 64
    5a 0 of 64
    easy 5a 7 of 64
    hard 4c 19 of 64
    4c 34 of 64
    easy 4c 4 of 64
    hard 4b 0 of 64
    4b 0 of 64
    easy 4b 0 of 64
    3 Stars 55 of 63
    2 Stars 6 of 63
    1 Star 1 of 63
    0 Stars 1 of 63
    Bag of ..... 0 of 63

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