Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 9
22m. A popular test-piece, usually the best chalked-up of the cracks. Difficulties escalate as the cave approaches with a hard final move (always easier after a quick sit on the gear). The sandy roof above the cave gives a gripping struggle passing a fat old peg (6a). The bottom section is often done on its own, hard but safe, choose a grade then abseil off.
Note: the peg on the first pich no longer has any cord to clip - making it impossible to clip unless you thread a wire through it - the first half is worth E4 in its own right in its current state.
i did this as the E3 6a version: my first Millstone 6a effort and it felt difficult (ie a bigger gap between 5c and 6a than i had expected). i found the moves to reach the upper part of the crack sequence dependent and reachy without much for your feet (maybe i just dont use my feet well enough?). great gear throughout and impossible to clip the peg but you dont really need it (having it pre-threaded would though make things feel more relaxed). good moves and a great finish.
The tat was back in last night.
Why does this route get the pumpy symbol? It isn't in the slightest.