The Wizard's Wynd

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Cosmik Debris < The Road to Iraq and Ruin  |  Diagon Alley > Where the Time Goes >>

A long left-to-right rising girdle of the wall. Prior knowledge of other routes on the wall is desirable.
1) 7b, 25m. Follow The Road to Iraq and Ruin into Kangaburger Wall. Difficult climbing crossing Trowgerbirge Wall gains Hardcore Ecstasy and a couple of moves down to a foot ledge and bolt belay.
2) 7a, 22m. Traverse right to more difficult moves down and then up (long slings on these bolts) which access a ledge on Where The Time Goes. Now go up and right to the top overlap before heading for the lower off on Petulant Frenzy. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Paul Clarke 2003


This wasn't hard at 7b and a slightly easier sequence makes it possibly 7a+
Paul Clarke - 08/Mar/04

I agree with Paul. I think I'm the only other person to have led it so far and it's probably only 7a+ on the 1st pitch. A superb expedition though and pitch 2 is quite complicated on first acquaintence.

Dave Musgrove - 08/Mar/04

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