Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 138
22m. Magnificent! Climb steeply to pass the jammed block (technical crux?) then trend right to a shallow groove and ledges below the soaring final crack. This is best climbed quickly after placing high runners. A final short steep wall completes this gem. A harder Direct Start, E3 5c is possible up the crack and groove to the right. Photo page 249.
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Completely underated route, top end E2, far harder than Billy Whizz, virtually E3. maybe if you are a specialist at this type of climb but otherwise it can only have got this lowly grade cos its easy to frig.
lots of solid locks in pin scars, and plenty of hands off rests do not a hard route make. Absolutely brilliant crack climbing though.
Ok, did this again this weekend and found it easier than I ever have before, not sure if its me or the climb thats different. Maybe all the sport work down in Portland is paying off?
Good route, well protected cruxes and a nice long outing with a good rest on the ledge. Take plenty of wires and q/d's.
' Climb steeply to pass the jammed block (possibly the technical crux?)'. The crux for me was the finger crack halfway up, didn't find either of the jammed blocks a problem.
I found the first few feet of it the hardest but perhaps I was just getting used to the size of the cracks, a nice route.
climb easily up to the jammed though the foot holds are quite poor so placing gear is quite strenuous, there are good holds to pull around the jammed block but none above so just keep pedalling! the slab, traverse and arete to the ledge are a delight. I found the top crack desperate, I placed a high runner from the ledge and just went for it, result a 20 foot fall. I spent too long searching for solid finger locks in the crack and thought it much harder than the Asp, maybe its just my fingers?.
The climbing is as good as the line. The mid-height traverse being excellant and airy. I found the jammed block tough and the final crack pretty straight forward with some delicate footwork.
This route has become my nemesis. On my most recent attempt to lead it I overcame the jammed block easily enough but then slipped off right at the top of the upper crackline. Just as well that the gear's so good
Great route, powerful then delicate then technical. Kept me in doubt all the way to the very last move. It's a pity the old pegs are being left to rot, they detract from what is an excellent route.
I found the top crack hardest, both feet slipped but bomb proof finger locks and managed to recover.Really fine route.