2 Stars
 E1 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Asylum < Cracked Actor  |  Jean Jeanie > Major Tom >>

The widest crack on the face gives a grim-but-great struggle with just enough protection. Slings and large cams protect.
FA. Ron Fawcett, John Heseltine 1973


dont even think about this unless you carry huge cams. anything smaller than friend 4 is a waste of time. take a sling for hand placed thread at 2/3 rd height.
i though crux was first 15 ft of the main crack itself, as holds inside and outside appear.

Brilliant route previous comments about friend 4 are not realy correct if you realy need to protect the main crack size 4 is way too small.However it is ok with no friends as there are 4 chockstones in place.It is however run out but fairly safe.I think a bit of a soft touch 4 e1
jjc - 25/Aug/04

Re previous post sorry 3 chock stones not 4
jjc - 25/Aug/04

There are 2 chockstones in the main straight section of the crack. The first is at one third hight and is about a foot back into the crack. The second you can see from below.
Matt Baird - 30/Jun/05

I thinks there's only one now, and iff you fell from just before hit you'd hit the floor from a loooooong way up.
Exile - 17/Mar/06

You couldn't fall off this if you tried. Get your thigh in the crack and get on with it. Carried 3 large friends and didn't place a single one. Just thread the chock. More like VS 4c for the offwidth.
Frithwood - 20/Aug/10

I followed Kirill on this route last Saturday. Neither of us found it grim-but-great in style. Plenty of positive hand and footholds made it pretty pleasurable to climb on the outside (seconding, although Kirill commented the same leading).

In terms of gear, there is really only one vital chockstone about 3 metres above the Cracked actor traverse so it is run out. Higher up big cams and hexes work.
GrahamD - 19/Nov/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 27
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