Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 27
The widest crack on the face gives a grim-but-great struggle with just enough protection. Slings and large cams protect.
dont even think about this unless you carry huge cams. anything smaller than friend 4 is a waste of time. take a sling for hand placed thread at 2/3 rd height.
Brilliant route previous comments about friend 4 are not realy correct if you realy need to protect the main crack size 4 is way too small.However it is ok with no friends as there are 4 chockstones in place.It is however run out but fairly safe.I think a bit of a soft touch 4 e1
Re previous post sorry 3 chock stones not 4
There are 2 chockstones in the main straight section of the crack. The first is at one third hight and is about a foot back into the crack. The second you can see from below.
I thinks there's only one now, and iff you fell from just before hit you'd hit the floor from a loooooong way up.
You couldn't fall off this if you tried. Get your thigh in the crack and get on with it. Carried 3 large friends and didn't place a single one. Just thread the chock. More like VS 4c for the offwidth.
I followed Kirill on this route last Saturday. Neither of us found it grim-but-great in style. Plenty of positive hand and footholds made it pretty pleasurable to climb on the outside (seconding, although Kirill commented the same leading).