Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 125
The fine central line is now getting a bit worn but is still brilliant. The wider section of crack at two-thirds height is most problematic. Excellent climbing and usually occupied.
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first time i climbed this found it ok.
A great climb, bomber gear all the way, nicely sustained, not particularly strenuous but with loads of resting places if you need them. Quite intimidating due to the polish but never harder than 4c.
Gosh how did the Trowbarrow database section sneak past me?? Cheeky bugger. Anyway, a highly polished, blocky, wide crack. Despite that it's really rather fun, steady climbing on good holds in a fine position. And being Al Evan's proudest route, everyone should go and do it....while it still stands =)
climb it before it falls down!
Climbing it twice now over the last 5 years - didn't find it too problematic either time. There is plenty of gear, and good holds where you need them.
Loz and I climbed this in November, top half of the crack was seeping badly and never really felt secure, good gear but big cams and hex's needed, hard 4c climbing but felt much more than VS due to the steepness. So polished that the only footholds were inside the crack - no friction on the face at all, might be differnt come summer though. Has the crack got wider? I don't know but I have a sneaky feeling that many a chock stone from the crack has now long gone making it harder....
a brilliant climb which ended a brilliant week in the lakes, i cnt wait to do it again in the near future
Check the BMC Website. A major rockfall was reported w/e 11th & 12th June affecting Jean Jeanie and surprisingly the routes to the left. Maybe the crack was getting wider.
Excellent route, though it ate all my big gear leaving me a bit vulnerable towards the top. Some foot holds are getting polished and the stability of the face is certainly suspect. I found a couple of loose blockes just below the top too!
I'm not sure what all the fuss is about, its a lot more secure now than it was when we first did it, the polish just offsets its original looseness. No there were no chockstones in the crack, its a lot easier now than it was on the first ascent.I have climbed it probably more than most over the past 20 or so years, including several solo ascents and I dont think the crack is getting wider. My last time was with Anni (she led it) a year or so ago and it just seemed like it did on about the 10th ascent. The polish was always there too, once you scrape the gunk off that is what the main wall is like!
yes a couple of blocks have dropped off,and a couple sound a bit dull at the top,but I don't think it's about to fall down just yet!Seconded it with Brucie Wad.so it was fun all the way plenty of holds and places to rest, it truely is a classic.(one for the book.)
And it has been supposedly going to fall down for over 30 years, I really dont think its changed except to get more solid, I've soloed it a few times and I would never have done that in its original state. It was definitely HVS then. Credit to John, Jeans brother, who was 11 when we did it and it was about his second climb!
Had this on my list for many years and finally got the tick yesterday. Absolutely brilliant route, a VS from the days when men were men. Quite strenuous due to the steepness I had a few beads of sweat by the time I topped out. Thouroughly enjoyed it. My second had led it 30 years previous and he was buzzing said it was exactly as he remembered it. Top route Al
Probably the least polished 3 star classic limestone route I've ever done - those who say it's polished should get themselves to Twistleton and see what real polish is like!