Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 235
20m. The thin fissure splitting the wall is reached via a steep finger crack (5c - but easily avoided) and is pleasantly delicate, beware a loose block. Protection is reasonable with enough small wires. Originally aided by Pete Biven hence the name.
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Slightly polished and with only two small wires for protection this is still an enjoyable outing. RP's are useful
The hard starting crack seemed more like 5c to me, with the rest of the route only 5b. Hard E1/soft E2 ?
Thought the gear was ok on this pitch - hard to place well but protectible with a set of wires 1-6. First moves are the hardest, the rest is probably 5b but feels harder when you're pumped! Hard E1 I reckon.
Overall I think the gear is poor on this route and could get someone badly in trouble, so would give it E2 for the head games.
Nice route. Thin gear but enough of it. E1 is an appropriate grade (i.e. I didn't scare myself stupid) as long as you have plenty of small wires and a set of swedges or similar. It'd be a really soft grit E2!
Good route BUT gear not great+spaced+pumpy to place.this combined with the fairly sustained moves surely makes this route E2 5b with a 5c problem start me thinks.
E2, no way. I actually thought this route was very well protected with small wires. The start is by far the hardest part of the climb.
Theres a loose block about half way up- watch out for it!
Ei and very protected.
Thought the gear was good so E1 should be the grade. It's a good climb because you have to work out the moves and it keeps you on your toes right to the top.
did this as my first E1, and found the protection fine, even without any micros, just rocks 1-10, and some hexes. tricky start tho.
Where can you get hexes in?
The definitive guide gives this route starting up the crack 2m left of 'Great Harry'. The start listed here is more like 5c giving a spurious technical crux to the route.
Definatly only E1, you can get plenty of good gear in with 1-10nuts (all placed off the left hand mind!). Would be far to soft for a peak E2.
i found this easy for E1 but im left handed i didnt notice but markyb says u place it all off ur left so probably better for lefties , the gear is fine by the way i had about 12 bits in
Ive only done about 5 E1s but did the start of this ok, it was the loose block that caught me out. Wish Id carried on now but was never going to trust gear behind it to hold a lead fall so put in the best bit I could and gingerly lowered off. One bold move to get to there as well, although when abbing for gear I could see the rest of the route was well-protected once a couple of moves past the block.
I only seconded this route ages ago. I have since attempted to lead it several times since then, but whimped out at the wobbly block half way up. Is the crux below or above this. Everyone seems to say it is below, but up to the wobbly block is faily straight forward. Have I lost the plot?
I placed two wires behind the "loose" block today & used it move up, seemed well keyed in to me.
the legendary loose block seems to cam itself in toplace to my mind.
First time ive noticed this is only two stars... its gotta be 3 surely. About where the crux is? who knows its all good technically hard in the lower part then easyer to work out the moves further up but it gets pumpy so feels just as hard as the lower.
start is more of a boulder problem (borderline 5c). gear is fine, gets better (bomber) as you get higher. loose block isnt really loose and takes gear which would probably help jam the block if you fall. technical crux on the route proper are the moves at the top of the main part of the climb. an excellent route but not grit / Peak E2.
quality route, took a few attempts with combined efforts, also my cousin took a 20 foot fall, the crux is right at the top just before the tree when u r pumped.
Well protected, think I had about 8 good small wires in, loose block doesn't wobble if you put in a wire at the left hand side, nice climbing, crux for me is the last move when you're pumped.
Nicely sustained E1 with lots of technical type moves at 5b with a worthwhile 5c start. The gear is fine.
this has got to be the easiest E1 I have ever done. Gear is fine and definitely only really 5a.
did this again yesterday and the loose block has gone leaving only slopey(although big) holds and no gear at that point. I felt it was definitely harder than before and way more pokey. e2 now for me.
Gear not very good in middle section until you get above where the loose block used to be
I've never done this route with "loose block" in situ. But, forgetting the problem start, this route is a clear E2 5b to me ... reason? Because the good gear is very spaced and there are no clear resting places ... definitely not recommended as first E1!
After doing this route yesterday I was left thinking what on earth all the fuss was about ? Good rests on big footholds from positive sidepulls, tons of bomber gear all the way placed from the rests and no desperate moves. easier than the Embankment E1s by far.
E1 and soft at that if you can muster the courage to get up to the good gear - which isn't really that far away. Easy compared to either of the E1s on Red Wall and like yer man says, Millstone!