Billy Whizz Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Boulevard < Von Ryan's Express  |  High Street > Holy Grail >>


18m. The central line on the wall is often well-chalked. High in the grade; short climbers with fat fingers can justly claim an E3. Climb the slab to the base of the steeper rock (wires to the right) and sprint up a flake to a deep slot. Step left and climb the thin crack (desperate!) to a triangular hole which takes the biggest nut you have. A final couple of long reaches gain the top.
FA. Geoff Birtles 1975

USER COMMENTS

Pumpy, pumpy, pumpy! The thin crack is desperately hard work, with the crux move getting to the second of the the small edges above. Fabulous :-)
Nick Smith - 24/Apr/02

I'm sure I'm not the first to wander if this route is harder than Boulevard (which at least has been given a more realistic grade here)
Steve Burns - 30/Sep/03

Top diagonal crack can be damp but even if not it must be E3. Certainly harder than Boulevard.
Justin Shiels - 24/Apr/04

Nice photo but pity you cant see Billy Whizz on it!
Justin Shiels - 24/Apr/04

There is no way on God's earth that Billy Wizz is easier than Boulevard. I'm not sure what's more gutting: the fact that Boulevard has been (realistically) down graded to E3 or that Billy Wizz is still only supposed to be E2!
gee - 20/Jul/04

A great, technical, sustained route with solid protection. Definately E2, never E3.
Phil R - 26/Jul/04

With the awsome gear, good holds and good footholds, never E3, still bench E2 and a wonderful fluttery climb. Only do this route if you are leading E2/E3 the battle is the best part!
Matt - 18/May/05

I think this is E3 for the on-sight, the gear is good but it is very pumpy and the E grade represents the effort for a flash. Feels much easier once you know the moves.
Ropeboy - 17/Jun/05

Did anyone else find the final 'reach' a bit more like a dyno?
drcorbasisgod - 07/Oct/05

I have led Billy Whizz and Boulevard a couple of times and this weekend followed Billy Whizz then top roped Boulevard in quick succession. I thought the climbing was similarly hard on both. As they are both well protected from good shakeouts and Boulevard is rated as hard for E3 (even given E4 in one guide) this must put Billy Whizz squarely in the E3 camp - especially so for the short.
Simon Lee - 23/Nov/05

Billy Whizz = E3
Boulevard = E2
No argument.

Both fantastic routes. Just a shame the headwall doesn't start off vertical at the lake...
Matt Heason - 02/Jun/06

come on Matt, its the other way round. Billy Wizz E2 and Boulevard E3!
Shane Ohly - 02/Jun/06

amazing climb. tpo jug provides a huge smile after pumpy moves after the crack. woerth all threee stars
martin cleaver - 16/Apr/07

glad to hear that im not the only one to dyno for that edge (i think even if i could climb it in more controlled style id opt for the dyno - especially exciting after the pumpy crack). found it quite bold though not difficult lower down. a brilliant route, with some great moves throughout.
ksjs - 12/Aug/07

Excellent fun, must go back and do it without the rest and without the gear that I didn't really need,
Jon Leighton - 21/Oct/07

Felt pretty steady for E2, very safe. Would probably seem even easier if your fingers are thin enough to fit in the crack!
Aly - 29/Sep/08

Billy Whiz - E2 (Hard E2 - always been E2)

Boulevard - E3 (Easyish E3 - should never have been given E4)
Ian Milward - 04/May/09

I think that Boulevard and Billy Whizz should be the same grade.
The protection lower down on Billy Whizz is not so good.
Neil Binns - 05/May/09

Third time on this in three years and I've finally done it clean. If you onsight this, get on Saville Street.
Jon Leighton - 14/Aug/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 139
    hard E3 0 of 50
    E3 0 of 50
    easy E3 25 of 50
    hard E2 15 of 50
    E2 10 of 50
    easy E2 0 of 50
    hard E1 0 of 50
    E1 0 of 50
    easy E1 0 of 50
    hard 6a 0 of 45
    6a 0 of 45
    easy 6a 1 of 45
    hard 5c 2 of 45
    5c 42 of 45
    easy 5c 0 of 45
    hard 5b 0 of 45
    5b 0 of 45
    easy 5b 0 of 45
    3 Stars 40 of 44
    2 Stars 4 of 44
    1 Star 0 of 44
    0 Stars 0 of 44
    Bag of ..... 0 of 44

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