Once Pegged Wall

1 Stars
Crimpy
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Excalibur < J.J.2  |  Morning Glory > Limpopo Groove >>


10m. The well-hammered thin cracks in the left wall of the groove, moving onto the left arete to gain the top.
FA. Don Morrison. 1955

USER COMMENTS

Not quite as amenable a climb if you have big fingers!
led - 15/Apr/02

Quite stiff but excellent protection. A good route.
DaveF - 09/May/03

I climbed this just knowing the grade, It felt very natural for me to climb it just using the crack and not the arete. In fact I really never noticed the arete. I dare say this says more about me than anything about the route. Sorry if this sounds a bit oblique!
Karl Walton - 11/May/04

Found it a bit tricky, but it was my first route back on grit after spanish limestone. Good gear all the way.
Shaun Walby - 26/Sep/04

A good technical little route which will feel stiff for 4c !
GrahamD - 04/Oct/04

VS 5a? Nice little route with loads of gear.
Jonathan T - 25/Apr/05

i found it slightly hard for vs but then i can't finger jam very well. my mate who has just started climbing secondede it with no trouble although he's 6'4" and could just reach the top ledge by stnding in the crack. bastard. vs 4c seems fair enough.
DannyC - 12/Jul/06

I think the finger-jamming on this is actually quite technical (and I like jamming !), and the feet at the top bit before the top aren't that good - it's quite steep. I'd stick with 5a.
Sue Easton - 12/Aug/06

Great training for Regent Street
Al Evans - 30/Sep/06

the right grade, one hardish move, all well-protected. There is very little finger-jamming involved if you use the available holds.
Si dH - 12/Nov/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 92
    hard HVS 0 of 45
    HVS 0 of 45
    easy HVS 8 of 45
    hard VS 19 of 45
    VS 18 of 45
    easy VS 0 of 45
    hard HS 0 of 45
    HS 0 of 45
    easy HS 0 of 45
    hard 5b 0 of 11
    5b 0 of 11
    easy 5b 0 of 11
    hard 5a 0 of 11
    5a 11 of 11
    easy 5a 0 of 11
    hard 4c 0 of 11
    4c 0 of 11
    easy 4c 0 of 11
    3 Stars 0 of 36
    2 Stars 10 of 36
    1 Star 26 of 36
    0 Stars 0 of 36
    Bag of ..... 0 of 36

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