1 Stars
 VS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Morning Glory < Limpopo Groove  |  Everyman and His Dog > Meringue >>

The left arete of the slab has decent runners at half-height; so don't fall off the last moves!
FA. Albert Shutt 1952


I thought there was overwhelming agreement that this was 4c before the guide went to print!
Graham - 04/Feb/02

I reckon 4b is about right , and certainly not HVS.
Chris Moor - 17/Dec/02

definitely not HVS
definitely not 4c
really good climb
GTE - 24/Mar/03

brill arete, makes a good intro to that type of thing. who suggested HVS? this is no more than middle of the road VS - if you did the crux you'd have to try fairly hard to fall off the last moves: the top holds are huge!
rich - 27/Apr/03

compared to say Keep arete at castle Naze this is HS 4b.
Jon Greengrass - 28/Oct/03

the holds are all there but i thought it was quite bold. nice moves.
Leon Skeldon - 15/May/04

I reckon VS 4b is about right. The gear you get in that slanting crack is superb, and it protects the crux moves. If you fell off the top, well you wouldn't have been able to do the crux!
Roberto - 17/Jun/04

Looks harder than it is. Perfect gear in the crack and the crux moves aren't particularly worrying.
Jonathan T - 19/Sep/04

Great climbing-if only it went on for 6 more pitches!!
mat_galvin - 28/May/05

Beta alert!

There is a bomber size 1 cam in the break about 2m below the top, making this very well protected for the upper half. The nut protecting the move to get on the half way ledge was less than inspiring. Bomber wires just above this though. Soft VS 4b probably about right.
Tim Higgins - 11/May/09

Head game! Lovely climbing and felt very bold - gear didn't feel bomber though my second assured me it was on his way up!
SJW - 25/Apr/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 177
    hard HVS 0 of 61
    HVS 0 of 61
    easy HVS 2 of 61
    hard VS 17 of 61
    VS 38 of 61
    easy VS 3 of 61
    hard HS 1 of 61
    HS 0 of 61
    easy HS 0 of 61
    hard 4c 0 of 61
    4c 0 of 61
    easy 4c 23 of 61
    hard 4b 7 of 61
    4b 29 of 61
    easy 4b 2 of 61
    hard 4a 0 of 61
    4a 0 of 61
    easy 4a 0 of 61
    3 Stars 1 of 55
    2 Stars 36 of 55
    1 Star 18 of 55
    0 Stars 0 of 55
    Bag of ..... 0 of 55

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