Meringue

1 Stars
Fluttery
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Limpopo Groove < Gingerbread  |  Eclair > Vanilla Slice >>


10m. The thin crack just to the right is delicate above half-height, micro-Friends just about protect the final crucial moves.
FA. Albert Shutt 1953. FFA. John Fearon 1955

USER COMMENTS

Enjoyable climb, don't believe all of the hype about a lack of gear at the top. V Small wires may be of help.
Dave Mason - 12/Nov/02

Protectable - just - with specialist gear (BD Swedges and a small alien at the top). Felt fluttery, even if the climbing was easy.
Stefan Kruger - 28/Apr/03

You don't need aliens. A Friend half fits nicely. Nice route.
DaveF - 06/Oct/03

This would have been HVS to solo, laced with micro wires and a tricam it felt like easy VS
Jon Greengrass - 28/Oct/03

i thought the gear was rubbish. the only thing that looked any good was a micro nut placement about 10 feet off the ground. but thats not a problem coz all the holds are great, easy 4c max & never hvs even on a solo.
Leon Skeldon - 15/May/04

Anyone with enough experience of a wide range of gritstone routes will know that HVS 5a is absolutely correct for this route. The hardest move IS 5a, and the gear situation means that you wouldn't want to fall on the little specialist bits of gear you've crammed into the awful placements near the top.
Mat - 17/Jun/04

Anyone who thinks this is adequately protected by microwires should read the article in Summit underlining how little it takes for them to fail
Simon Caldwell - 18/Jun/04

I'm with Mat on this one. Gear okay but wouldn't like to test it!
mat_galvin - 20/Feb/05

Felt easier than Once Pegged and not a whole lot harder than Gingerbread. Top end 4c with poor gear.
Jonathan T - 25/Apr/05

anyone that thinks this is HVS needs to get out more
moonboy - 11/Jul/05

48 out of 51 people for example!

Chris
Chris Craggs - 11/Jul/05

Anyone who thinks this is less than HVS is certainly not an HVS leader, and is probably into DWS at low tide.
drcorbasisgod - 07/Oct/05

I didn`t look in guide book first, thought it looked about vs. Near the top i realisd the lack of gear, it doesn`t matter if you can protect with micro stuff if you havn`t got any! Don`t think i would have gone for it knowing this, buzz at top though.
Alan Keane - 20/Jun/06

Its a great route for anybody that can use Tri Cams, even better than friends for the crux on this one. Very soft at HVS though.
Al Evans - 30/Sep/06

Did it today n was nervous havin not climbed hvs this year and feelin pretty fat. Got a bomber rock in at 1/3 hight and a bomber 0.5 friend in at 2/3 hight. Felt it very soft for hvs but a lovely climb.

It does suit my style but still found it easy but gotta say the gear on offer probably makes hvs the right grade and 4c/5a seems right to me once pegged wall felt a lot more strenuous just better protected.


Cam
Cameron Anderson - 21/May/07

Nice and elegant, technical slab climbing. Placing wires to protect the top move would require skill and confidence. Instead, aliens or tricams can easily protect the hard final move.
Mario - 10/Sep/07

Hmmm... a VS solo up to the final move, where you'll be glad of the gear, even if it is dubious. HVS 5a feels about right. Amazing feeling of polish without loosing any friction.
Pythonist - 11/Sep/07

I reckon easy HVS and 4c. Think I got 5 bits of gear in - good cam which I remove to save for higher up, good nut, crap micronut, crap .3 camalot, okay ish .4 camalot. Could see how tricams could be useful, but don't think I missed much else? The moves were easier than I expected though, so didn't feel necky, and I'm not a bold climber. Having said that, I had just seconded Vanilla Slice which may have helped me get a feel for the rock.
cider nut - 19/Oct/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 221
    hard E1 0 of 77
    E1 0 of 77
    easy E1 0 of 77
    hard HVS 0 of 77
    HVS 49 of 77
    easy HVS 23 of 77
    hard VS 5 of 77
    VS 0 of 77
    easy VS 0 of 77
    hard 5b 0 of 77
    5b 0 of 77
    easy 5b 0 of 77
    hard 5a 0 of 77
    5a 53 of 77
    easy 5a 13 of 77
    hard 4c 11 of 77
    4c 0 of 77
    easy 4c 0 of 77
    3 Stars 2 of 67
    2 Stars 8 of 67
    1 Star 56 of 67
    0 Stars 1 of 67
    Bag of ..... 0 of 67

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