Tyrone

1 Stars
Pumpy
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Snail Crack < Nailsbane  |  Nova > Ratus Norvegicus >>


18m. Climb the crack to its end then the steep wall on good but spaced holds. Finish direct up the curving crack or, easier, head right to the ledge.

USER COMMENTS

I have never heard ANYBODY suggest this was undergraded at VS 4c.
Graham - 04/Feb/02

This can't possibly be HVS - no more than VS 5a or even 4c. Gets very sandy after rain, but never-the-less a nice route.
Nick Smith - 21/May/02

The BMC guide shows the top out as using the right hand crack. If you go direct up the curving crack it is a bit harder and I think it may warrant an easy HVS. If not it is certainly hard for VS.
DaveF - 09/May/03

I'd agree: soft HVS when taken direct (one 5a move), much easier without (HS?)...
Reuben - 08/Dec/03

some moves a bit necky- but the pro behind them is good- you'd swing but not deck. Enjoyed it.
Scott - 09/Jun/04

In what way is any move on this route "necky"?
Nick - 09/Jun/04

So where's the 5a move?? I thought the 4b move on Nova next door was harder than anything on here. Very pleasant route but it can't be HVS 'cause I led it.
Crammy - 19/Sep/04

Grade aside, its a nice little route.
GrahamD - 04/Oct/04

Very good. Only one, short, well protected 5a move, therfore i give it VS 5a.
lozzer - 08/Jan/05

Following the curving crack (leftwards) at the top probably warrants HVS, but most of the climb is too easy and mucky.
Glen - 17/Mar/06

P.S. Nova, to the right, is much better.
Glen - 17/Mar/06

I thought it was easy for a HVS, it's more like a VS than a HVS, the best moves are at the last section and loads of gear placements if needed, still a good route though.
Paul Tomo - 12/Nov/06

This first time I lead this I fell off. The copy of the Rockfax guide had this listed as HVS 5a so I was prepared but as it turned out there was no drame even at the top. It's good to see that this has now returned to VS 4c , although I would grade this at VS 5a if you take the curving crack finnish.
albie niedojadlo - 12/May/08

The curving crack finish is probably 5a, but I'd agree this was a soft touch HVS.
Chris Parson - 05/Apr/10

Fell on lead! Decent climbing that didn't feel too hard until choosing which crack to follow - went left (maybe low end HVS 4c/5a?) and slipped.... Gear held and felt good all the way up. Felt harder to me than Bilberry Crack (VS 5a) at Bamford which I'd led earlier in the day
SJW - 16/May/10

I've led this a few times and its a great climb. No matter how many times i've done it, i always find following the crack left a little dramatic. Not climbed it for a while though, so would like to try it again some time. 5a if crack followed left at the top, simple 4c otherwise.
Luke Addison - 01/Nov/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 60
    hard HVS 0 of 8
    HVS 0 of 8
    easy HVS 0 of 8
    hard VS 4 of 8
    VS 3 of 8
    easy VS 1 of 8
    hard HS 0 of 8
    HS 0 of 8
    easy HS 0 of 8
    hard 5a 0 of 8
    5a 0 of 8
    easy 5a 3 of 8
    hard 4c 2 of 8
    4c 2 of 8
    easy 4c 0 of 8
    hard 4b 1 of 8
    4b 0 of 8
    easy 4b 0 of 8
    3 Stars 0 of 44
    2 Stars 9 of 44
    1 Star 33 of 44
    0 Stars 2 of 44
    Bag of ..... 0 of 44

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