TyroneRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 60
Adjacent Routes 18m. Climb the crack to its end then the steep wall on good but spaced holds. Finish direct up the curving crack or, easier, head right to the ledge. USER COMMENTS
I have never heard ANYBODY suggest this was undergraded at VS 4c.
This can't possibly be HVS - no more than VS 5a or even 4c. Gets very sandy after rain, but never-the-less a nice route.
The BMC guide shows the top out as using the right hand crack. If you go direct up the curving crack it is a bit harder and I think it may warrant an easy HVS. If not it is certainly hard for VS.
I'd agree: soft HVS when taken direct (one 5a move), much easier without (HS?)...
some moves a bit necky- but the pro behind them is good- you'd swing but not deck. Enjoyed it.
In what way is any move on this route "necky"?
So where's the 5a move?? I thought the 4b move on Nova next door was harder than anything on here. Very pleasant route but it can't be HVS 'cause I led it.
Grade aside, its a nice little route.
Very good. Only one, short, well protected 5a move, therfore i give it VS 5a.
Following the curving crack (leftwards) at the top probably warrants HVS, but most of the climb is too easy and mucky.
P.S. Nova, to the right, is much better.
I thought it was easy for a HVS, it's more like a VS than a HVS, the best moves are at the last section and loads of gear placements if needed, still a good route though.
This first time I lead this I fell off. The copy of the Rockfax guide had this listed as HVS 5a so I was prepared but as it turned out there was no drame even at the top. It's good to see that this has now returned to VS 4c , although I would grade this at VS 5a if you take the curving crack finnish.
The curving crack finish is probably 5a, but I'd agree this was a soft touch HVS.
Fell on lead! Decent climbing that didn't feel too hard until choosing which crack to follow - went left (maybe low end HVS 4c/5a?) and slipped.... Gear held and felt good all the way up. Felt harder to me than Bilberry Crack (VS 5a) at Bamford which I'd led earlier in the day
I've led this a few times and its a great climb. No matter how many times i've done it, i always find following the crack left a little dramatic. Not climbed it for a while though, so would like to try it again some time. 5a if crack followed left at the top, simple 4c otherwise. |