Delectable Direct

2 Stars
Technical
 E1 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Nova < Ratus Norvegicus  |  Red Wall > The Delectable Variation >>


15m. The thin crack in the centre of the wall can be dirty after rain. At other times it is followed direct when it gives excellent and well protected climbing.
FA. Peter Biven 1956. FFA. Don Morrison 1964

USER COMMENTS

How can this be graded harder than Great Peter (E1 5b) ? A hard 5b move at the start, and a slightly bold, balancy move at the top. Great climb.
Nick Smith - 24/Apr/02

This was my first HVS 5b lead...how did it wind up E1 5c??

Great finger jams from what I remember.
Steve L - 07/Jan/03

probably another contender for E0
mark s davies - 11/May/03

Surprisingly worthwhile, good that it's gone up to two stars. HVS 5b - too safe to be E0 but both an interesting start AND finish, nice climbing although, yes, can be dusty.
Fiend - 24/Oct/03

Nick Smith:- I think that's because IMO 'Great Peter' is E2. Getting onto the initial slab is 5c IMO.
I also first climbed it when it was HVS 5b and didn't think the grade was right then.
karl walton - 17/Apr/05

Well worth 2 stars. Grade about right compared to other grit crack lines locally. Hardest at top for me.
John - 22/Apr/05

Initial move did feel 5c to me.
Gave me more trouble than the moves on Suspense.
Mick B - 26/Sep/05

I can't see how the initial and final moves are less than 5c. Yes it's well protected but I was gripped.
drcorbasisgod - 07/Oct/05

when I did this first about 15 years ago, there was no mud run off form the top wall and the holds were crisp and unpolished, even then it was very hard for 5b! the gear placements have deteriorated at the start as well because of wear.
mike S28 - 21/Nov/05

I only seconded this but it definitely didnt feel 5c (which I usually find quite tough, whereas the moves ointhis were fine). It would certainly be a hard HVS though seeing as there are a couple of hard moves.
Si dH - 12/Nov/06

Superb route. 5c moves both at bottom and top.
Adam Morris - 28/Feb/08

bagged this as my first E1 today, well chuffed, top bit scared the bejezus out of me! Certainly harder than all the HVS's I've done.
Rob Cole - 22/Feb/09

Thought the last bit was the crux and worth 5c. Best route on the wall.
harold walmsley - 02/May/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 136
    hard E2 0 of 47
    E2 0 of 47
    easy E2 1 of 47
    hard E1 1 of 47
    E1 28 of 47
    easy E1 8 of 47
    hard HVS 9 of 47
    HVS 0 of 47
    easy HVS 0 of 47
    hard 6a 0 of 47
    6a 0 of 47
    easy 6a 1 of 47
    hard 5c 1 of 47
    5c 12 of 47
    easy 5c 19 of 47
    hard 5b 14 of 47
    5b 0 of 47
    easy 5b 0 of 47
    3 Stars 7 of 42
    2 Stars 30 of 42
    1 Star 5 of 42
    0 Stars 0 of 42
    Bag of ..... 0 of 42

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