Red Wall

1 Stars
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Ratus Norvegicus < Delectable Direct  |  The Delectable Variation > Cordite Crack >>

18m. A worthwhile climb though with a fearsome finish. Climb the lower wall rightwards and a short corner to a sandy ledge and belay - VS 4c to here. Make a desperate mantelshelf up the wall on the left at the back of the ledge (holds to the right should be avoided but usually aren't) to finish. Alternatively, grub up the corner groove - lowering the grade to VS 4c!
FA. Don Morrison 1956


Don't try this one if you're a novice and tired, I scrambled up the lower wall only to ask to be belayed off the first ledge....much more fun with energy!
fiona - 22/Nov/02

if you have a thing with ants. stay well clear. there is an small nest on a small ledge midway up the first wall!
Dan - 15/Apr/03

I tried this yesterday and thought the top was brick hard for 5b. Unless you use the flake on the right wall or are well over six foot there is no way on Gods earth you can reach the ledge from which you have to mantel! My mates BMC Guidebook makes a comment about standing on a mates shoulders which I think says it all.
Mark Humphries - 14/Aug/03

Agreed, some hard moves to leave the midway ledge, the rest of the climb is quite straight forward.
John Camateras - 21/May/04

Great route nice easy bottom bit and severly hard top bit. Climbed it in one long pitch so didn't have the luxury of standing on my seconds shoulders.I'm only 5'8 so the reaches on the top wall were nearly impossible,don't climb this if you cant hang around on crimps. I finished up using a small pinch in the crack on the right hand side,before finishing up the right hand side of the tree,is this right? Because this felt 5c not 5b.
Adam Moroz - 10/Jan/05

Really good route - chose it as my first E1 as i'm good at mantleshelves. I tried using the small crimps and pinch but had to use the flake on right wall then hand traverse across and finished right of tree. If this is not ok, then the route must be harder than 5b.
paul - 20/Nov/05

What you neglect to mention is that it took you 5 hours and I lost 1 hand to frostbite, but nice one all the same.
Matt G - 21/Nov/05

Didn't think this was too height dependant. I managed to second it cleanly and I'm only 5'1". Climbing at Pex paid off on the crimps.
Julie Mair - 26/Feb/07

Nice climbing up the lower corners. Bloody hard (top end 5c/6a) move off the ledge, and rather bold, but easier, higher up. Use of gear in the left-hand crack could be the reasoning behind some guidebooks giving the route E1 - I reckon said gear's only sensible, and the route should be counted as a seriously hard E1.
Pythonist - 11/Sep/07

My dad led the lower pitch which was fine, I got the short straw of leading the top pitch, I could just about get off the groung using the crimp but I could not reach the ledge you would need to be very tall to reach it. It seemed more like 6a using the crimps as there was only one good one and the rest were crap. so finished on delectable variation which was fantastic.
robert bridges - 27/Jan/08

Climbed the crack. If Millstone grades are anything to go by it's E1 5b(traditional).
Dave Foster - 03/May/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 12
    hard E3 0 of 2
    E3 0 of 2
    easy E3 0 of 2
    hard E2 0 of 2
    E2 2 of 2
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    hard 6a 0 of 2
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    easy 6a 0 of 2
    hard 5c 1 of 2
    5c 0 of 2
    easy 5c 1 of 2
    hard 5b 0 of 2
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    3 Stars 0 of 8
    2 Stars 1 of 8
    1 Star 6 of 8
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