Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 73
Altogether a better way up the wall. Climb Red Wall to the sandy ledge/stance. Traverse the delicate wall on the left all the way to the arete, on a continuously surprising set of holds, for a superbly exposed finale.
great route, only spoiled by the ants on the first pitch. The traverse is scary but fun, I won't find anything quite like this at the grade.
Tricky start then an airy finish on great holds. Very enjoyable.
Has you wondering where the holds are when you look up at it, but they come just where you need them. The final arete is a joy.
A real gem. Obviously the second needs to be competent for the traverse.
Fantastic route. Hard boulder problem start, VS 4c to the sandy ledge (though the last moves to the ledge are much harder if you're short, at least 5a), then VS 4b on the traverse which is unprotected from the crack of the Direct to the top of the arete. The flake at the far end of the traverse (which might have been a gear placement) has very recently come off.
The flake at the far end of the traverse used to give a gear placement (though perhaps not as good as one might have thought!). Without it the climbing is scarcely harder but unless you are carrying small cams its certainly more thought provoking.
There are good micro wires once you reach the arete (just before). I placed a bomber large(st) RP. Surprisingly good route. It looks dirty and rubbish from the ground, but is a joy to climb!
Oh, and probably 5a first moves - if you put those moves half way up the route you would certainly think they were at least 5a. No more than VS though.