The Delectable Variation

3 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Red Wall < Red Wall Variations  |  Cordite Crack > Skyline >>

Altogether a better way up the wall. Climb Red Wall to the sandy ledge/stance. Traverse the delicate wall on the left all the way to the arete, on a continuously surprising set of holds, for a superbly exposed finale.
FA. Don Morrison 1956


great route, only spoiled by the ants on the first pitch. The traverse is scary but fun, I won't find anything quite like this at the grade.
rich - 27/Apr/03

Tricky start then an airy finish on great holds. Very enjoyable.
Paul Winder - 21/Apr/04

Has you wondering where the holds are when you look up at it, but they come just where you need them. The final arete is a joy.
Shaun Walby - 27/Jul/04

A real gem. Obviously the second needs to be competent for the traverse.
Jonathan Teale - 20/Sep/04

Fantastic route. Hard boulder problem start, VS 4c to the sandy ledge (though the last moves to the ledge are much harder if you're short, at least 5a), then VS 4b on the traverse which is unprotected from the crack of the Direct to the top of the arete. The flake at the far end of the traverse (which might have been a gear placement) has very recently come off.
Simon Caldwell - 15/Nov/04

The flake at the far end of the traverse used to give a gear placement (though perhaps not as good as one might have thought!). Without it the climbing is scarcely harder but unless you are carrying small cams its certainly more thought provoking.
roger whetton - 18/Apr/05

There are good micro wires once you reach the arete (just before). I placed a bomber large(st) RP. Surprisingly good route. It looks dirty and rubbish from the ground, but is a joy to climb!
Tim Higgins - 11/May/09

Oh, and probably 5a first moves - if you put those moves half way up the route you would certainly think they were at least 5a. No more than VS though.
Tim Higgins - 11/May/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 73
    hard HVS 0 of 24
    HVS 0 of 24
    easy HVS 1 of 24
    hard VS 3 of 24
    VS 18 of 24
    easy VS 2 of 24
    hard HS 0 of 24
    HS 0 of 24
    easy HS 0 of 24
    hard 5a 0 of 24
    5a 0 of 24
    easy 5a 1 of 24
    hard 4c 4 of 24
    4c 12 of 24
    easy 4c 6 of 24
    hard 4b 1 of 24
    4b 0 of 24
    easy 4b 0 of 24
    3 Stars 19 of 25
    2 Stars 6 of 25
    1 Star 0 of 25
    0 Stars 0 of 25
    Bag of ..... 0 of 25

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