Carillo-Cantabella

3 Stars
 5+

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A popular classic taking a line up the disjointed grooves on the left side of the central section of the face. There are better routes to the right but this is still a good introduction to the cliff. The route is well bolted and sees plenty of traffic. Start left of the toe of the buttress at a right-trending groove.
1) 4+, 40m. Climb the ramp rightwards past a cave to a ledge.
2) 5+, 35m. Trend left to a groove and up this to a tree. The crux is harder than anything else on the climb but is easily friggable.
3) 4+, 35m. Climb the groove above then the pillar on the right.
4) 4+, 35m. Trend left then follow cracks to a niche.
5) 5+, 50m. Traverse right across the face then climb a groove eventually passing an old stance to an easier finish.
FA. Juan Carrillo, Mariano Cantabella 1970s

USER COMMENTS

Good route and very well bolted. Couldn't find a belay at the end of pitch 5. Ran P5 and P6 together. The locals ahead of us did the same.
Swig - 05/Apr/05

Fantastic route very well bolted. The last 2 pitches must have been combined cos the 2nd to last belay isnt there.
liam pos - 02/Nov/06

Agree there is no belay on top of pitch five and thi and the last one are easily run together. the rib on pitch three is over to the right and not the left as described.
john yates - 16/Dec/06

Good route but fair amount of scrambling involved. 2nd pitch is fantastic
Martin - 13/Mar/08

Out of interest, the local guidebook grades this 5+, 6a, 4+, 5, 6a! Personally I reckon something like 5, 5+, 4, 4+, 5.

Not that it matters but I don't think pitches 5/6 as per Rockfax run together, I reckon pitch 6 just doesn't exist - as pitch 5 isn't 55m long.

Great route, the last 2 pitches especially are superbly exposed. Didn't notice any scrambling but I guess it's all relative. Pitch 2 was significantly harder than anything else but can be aided apparently (ahem).
Simon Caldwell - 16/Apr/08

great position on a fabulous cliff but the climbing was dissapointing compared to most routes in the area. It takes the easy line avoiding some of the best rock which leads to some scrambling up loose lines and gullies. Carnaval is a much better route, if you only do one route here.
Chris Wilson - 01/Feb/09

A much better and slightly harder route, Pequeno Pepillo, starts just right of Carillo-Cantab, goes straight up for 2 pitches, traverse left for 25 feet to a spectacular V- groove, hand crack and then straight up to top out just right of the obvious tree. 3 star sustained HVS 5+/6a all the way.
william Oliver Hill - 14/May/11

Great route ... there maybe a 6a move on it as local guide says. but 5+ is what I'd give it. Its one of the most popular routes on the crag - so I'd advise people to buy the local guide (or look at someone elses) - there are about 100 routes on the main face.
mike-s - 30/Jan/13

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