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A big route which finishes at the hanging corner on the right side of the great block-overhang near the top of the cliff.
1) 5+, 40m. A wall leads to a long groove; up this to a ledge. Be aware of a band of loose rock on this pitch.
2) 6a, 30m. Up the sustained wall to a good ledge on the left.
3) 6b, 40m. The tough wall leads to a short groove and belay.
4) 6a, 20m. Head left up a ramp (loose blocks at the start and higher up) to the base of the groove.
5) 6a, 25m. Finish up the chimney groove above.
FA. Miguel Angel Gallego, Jose Seiquer Carasa 1977
Once again, add one grade to each pitch, in accordance with the local guide. An impressive steep line. The first pitch has a loose rock band that requires care. The third pitch is a fantastic orange wall that is easier than it looks. The last pitch climbs a huge undercut, overhanging pillar that looks like the next storm will dislodge. However it withstood a 5.2 earthquake the next day
william Oliver Hill - 14/May/11
This felt much harder than 6b to me!
The crux is well bolted ... but felt way harder than 6b ... it started to rain when we did the route so had to retreat on pitch 4.
imho not one of the best routes on the crag
mike-s - 30/Jan/13
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