Eiger

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 6c

Adjacent Routes
<< Riglos < Fisura Carrillo - Vera  |  Historia interminable > Gallego-Carillo >>


The smooth-looking wall to the right of Fisura Carrillo - Vera.
1) 6a, 30m. From the base of Fisura Carrillo - Vera, climb rightwards then straight up a corner to a stance in a cave.
2) 6c, 35m. Climb out of the cave and up cracks before trending right to reach a stance on the left.
3) 6a, 35m. Trend easily right for 10m then back left to enter the steep crack. Climb this to a small stance.
4) 6b and A0, 40m. Up the crack then move left (metal hand hold) to enter the superb corner. Up this to its top and a stance.
5) 6a, 30m. Move left (loose) to the edge of the ledge from where cracks are followed with a jig left, to the top.
5a) 6c, 25m. An alternative finish direct up the wall.
FA. Luis Clavel 1975

USER COMMENTS

Probably should not comment on this as we only did the top 3.5 pitches. Pitch 4 is a beautiful corner which looks desperate from below but turns out to be very mild. Given 6b in local topos it probably is really 6a+ mostly for the steep start before swinging left. The final crack is nice too. The local topo grades it as, 6a,6c,6a+, 6b A0, 6a. I will not vote on this route but feel it should be 3 stars.
william Oliver Hill - 12/Mar/08

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.