<< Eiger < Historia interminable | Carnaval > Yosemite >>
The first route to breach the main wall at Leyva takes a direct line up the cliff finishing up a curving groove near the top.
1) 5+, 40m. Follow the left-trending ramp, with the odd tricky move, to the top of the tower.
2) 6a+, 35m. Climb the double corner (loose) then the better wall above to a stance on a big block.
3) 6b, 40m. Climb to a ledge then diagonally left to the base of a developing groove - up this to a good stance. On the first ascent the route traversed left for a bivvi in a chimney and then went direct to the base of the groove.
4) 6a+, 50m. Follow the curving groove to its top then climb up and right along a ramp and up slabs to the top.
4a) 5, 50m. Traverse left across the slab into the long groove and follow this (loose in places) past at least one possible stance, to the top.
FA. Miguel Garcia Gallego, Juan Carrillo Olmos 1970
The line is changed at 3rd pitch. a diagonal (new bolts) is linked with 4th pitch. No 8 meter traverse, no stance in the niche.
susanne - 19/Jan/13
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